If the shift lock is suspect, it should definitely start in neutral. Sounds like a battery or starter issue to me. Or maybe a module (ac amp assembly maybe)

 

If the shift lock is suspect, it should definitely start in neutral.

That would definitely seem to take the shift interlock out of the equation. I didn't think of that. Hmmm...

Thanks!

 

While the AC Amp/Meter has caused this for some others, also check the engine/chassis grounds. Of course a jump start is worth a try- still sounds like a battery or starter issue.

 

While the AC Amp/Meter has caused this for some others, also check the engine/chassis grounds. Of course a jump start is worth a try- still sounds like a battery or starter issue.

I’ve had engine/frame/chassis ground issues on any number of motorcycles and older British (who hasn’t?) cars, but never on a newer car. But that’s certainly something to check, esp at 165K miles.

And at the risk of entirely exposing my ignorance, can you tell me what and where the AC Amp/Meter is? I doubt it refers to a gauge… Maybe a rectifier somewhere?

If the jump from my local AAA truck soon makes a difference, then I’ll know better which direction to look.

Thanks again!

 

AC Amp/Meter is below the radio. It controls a number of the interior systems, and can cause starting issues reportedly.

 

AC Amp/Meter is below the radio. It controls a number of the interior systems, and can cause starting issues reportedly.

Thanks, G/P. Again.

I do see at least one other post here from April, 2012 where the AC Amp/Meter WAS the problem.

Well, the jump-start didn't do anything. And then the tow truck driver got underneath and jumped the terminals on the starter, effectively bypassing the solenoid. That didn't do anything, either. While he was doing that, I turned the ignition switch. Got the audible clunk in the starter, but still noting moved. Banged on the side of the starter a bit, too. The guy seemed to know what he was doing, so I trust that he likely jumped the correct terminals/contacts.

He also said the battery was putting out only about 260 amps. It's rated at 660 CCA. I should get at battery first THEN a starter? But even with a jump on the battery, it sTILL didn't turn over. The battery hasn't seemed particularly weak, and it's only 3 years old.

And now I cannot find the service manual DVD that I had. UGH!!

Since the starter wouldn't move after jumping the battery, AND the solenoid, does that point only to a bad starter? Or could it still be a bad AC Amp/Meter? I'm really not in a position where I can start replacing parts until I come across the bad one...

And one final (I hope!) question, if I may... Once the access shield(s) is removed below, is the starter relatively easy to get to and replace? I've seen pretty reasonable labor costs for the starter replacement, so I'm assuming it isn't any big deal. It looked fairly accessible from the back of the motor, from what I could see with the shield in place.

What to do...

 

Sounds like starter then...

 

It turned out to be the starter. Replaced it with no problem - see other thread, if interested.

And the new starter spins up much faster, so I'm no longer worried about the battery's health.

Thanks for your input!

 

Glad you found it! I thought it was that.

 

Hi can I ask if your car has the intelligent key? Mine didn't start yesterday with or without the key and the key light on the dash turns green and lets me turn the ignition but then nothing (as far as starting) then the dash key light turns red. Was yours the same? I can change a starter but something with the intelligent system would probably mean dealer Unless someone else knows what it could be.... Thanks

 

If your wireless key is not recognized, you wont be able to trun the ignition switch far enough to crank the car. If you can turn the ignition switch in the start position but nothing is happening then its either the starter/battery.

 

Hey Ken? Thanks for the input. I was shocked to have a problem with my car! It's been absolutely flawless since day one. I've never owned a car so reliable and perfectly amazing. I've concluded now that I had a chance to look at it further, that it has someing to do with the starter. Either a corroded connection or just the starter itself going. It warmed up to about 40 degrees yesterday and when I went to try it again it didn't hesitate then started everytime all day as I did some arrons. I parked in the street and later that night it cooled off to around 20 degrees and did the same thing- just a single click when I tried to start it. I will clean all the connections tomorrow and see what happens and let you know. If nothing I have to assume it's the starter. The starter just turned over so strongly that it made me doubt it was the problem