I've had my FX for about 4 weeks now, and I have this extremely annoying whistle coming from the driver's side outside mirror at 65-70 mph. It sounds similar to the modem dial up wistle on your computer, only it never connects. If I put my hand on top of the mirror it stops. I do have paint protection film on the edge of my mirror, but the right mirror has identical film on it, and it doesn't whistle. Does anyone have or has anyone heard of a problem with this wind noise on the driver's outside mirror? I want to know if I should take it into the dealer for warranty service or if I should take it to my film installer to see if a new installation would stop the whistle. Thanks.
Wind noise!
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I searched around and could not find any mention of a similar wind noise. I'm assuming you didn't notice a whistle before you had the film placed on it, so I'd see if the installer might help. Good luck.
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Yeah, I looked through all the old FA posts for noise also...nada. Any chance that the mirror was tilted inward, and is not all the way back in it's full outward position?
Thanks for the research, but I did do several searches looking to see if anyone else every reported this problem and I didn't find anything either. Unfortunately, I only had the car for one day before I had the film applied, and I really didn't notice the whistling until about two weeks later (new car sensory overload, etc.), so I can't definitively say that it didn't make the noise before the film was applied.
The mirror is all the way out. In fact, I can and do tilt it in from time to time to get a reprieve from the incessant whistling.
I guess the only alternative is to reapply the film, which won't be expensive at all if they even charge me, but I am still having trouble wrapping my mind around how this very thin film on the front of my mirror could be making all of this noise. It is really fascinating ... or maybe my mind is just easily occupied.
Thanks for the comments.
The mirror is all the way out. In fact, I can and do tilt it in from time to time to get a reprieve from the incessant whistling.
I guess the only alternative is to reapply the film, which won't be expensive at all if they even charge me, but I am still having trouble wrapping my mind around how this very thin film on the front of my mirror could be making all of this noise. It is really fascinating ... or maybe my mind is just easily occupied.
Thanks for the comments.
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I had this wind noise from the same spot. I believe I had a post on FA regarding it, but anyway, if you roll down the window while driving and position your hand around the rearview mirror, you'll likely find that if you hold your hand covering the top of the mirror, the noise will go away. It is caused by turbulent air around the seam where the mirror cover meets the body of the mirror along the top. My dealer was able to reproduce the noise and replaced the mirror cover. It is much better now, but can still be heard at times, just not as loud. The only alternative would be to replace the entire mirror ($1200 on a tech car), which I thought was a bit extreme even for warranty work and it is greatly improved so I let it go at that.
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Sorry to bring this post back to life 3.5 yrs later but has anyone else had this problem? I started hearing a whistle a few weeks ago and thought it was wind noise coming in through the windows. I rolled my windows down while hearing it on my last trip to dallas and realized it was the driver side mirror.
I read another post about a whistle from the LED side mirror covers and them not having insulation. Mine are stock, but I wonder if theres a problem with the insulation underneath.
http://www.infinitifx.org/phpBB2/viewto ... c&start=50
Sorry, I know the other post is more recent, but this more accurately represents the problem since its only the driver's side and I also have clear bra on the mirror cover, but i hear the whistle at 75-80 mph.
I read another post about a whistle from the LED side mirror covers and them not having insulation. Mine are stock, but I wonder if theres a problem with the insulation underneath.
http://www.infinitifx.org/phpBB2/viewto ... c&start=50
Sorry, I know the other post is more recent, but this more accurately represents the problem since its only the driver's side and I also have clear bra on the mirror cover, but i hear the whistle at 75-80 mph.
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Thats funny cos my WRX has the same, on the A2.... no noise at lower speeds then bammmm 130 MPH all the way to 160 and the rear windows flapping like a humming bird!!!!!chief3 said:autobahn A5, 80mph....no wind noise.....100mph, little bit......130mph, lots of wind noise
:lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:
Gotta love the Autobahns
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Doh! I knew you'd end up asking that...
Took me a while but this may help you... found it in the thread about putting on LED headlights... of course you won't need to put on the LED headlilghts, but you get the idea...
Took me a while but this may help you... found it in the thread about putting on LED headlights... of course you won't need to put on the LED headlilghts, but you get the idea...
GAMacky said:Ok, someone brought up the question as to what tools are required to get this done. So I'll list the tools needed and roughly go through where they're needed.
1. phillips screw driver
2. Door trim remover (med to large flat head screw dirver works but might scratch things up)
3. 10mm socket wrench
4. T25 Torx wrench (NOT a torque wrench!)
5. small flat head screw driver
6. Insulation (weather strips as mentioned in above posts)
7. Electrical tape (optional)
8. needle nose plier
Steps: (please have your windows all the way down before you begin)
1. remove the little screw cover in the cavity where you reach to open the door from the inside with the small flat head screw driver. Remove the aluminum trim in front of the handle bar with the flat screw driver. Remove the 3 screws that you revealed with phillips screw driver. Use the Door trim remover to loose the clips along the sides of the door panel starting with the bottom. Scratches at the bottom will be hard to notice. You'll find clips all the way around the bottom and the 2 sides. Then the door panel lifts up off of the window sill. I used a cooler set under the door to keep the door panel in place without disconnecting everything from it. But you'll need to disconnect the connector that goes to the mirror.
2. Simply grab hold of the triangular plastic cover revealed completely with the door panel out of the way at the bottom and pull it off. It is held in place by 2 molded clips in the middle. Use the 10mm socket to loosen and remove the 3 bolts that's holding the mirror in place. Be sure to remove the upper bolt last to assist in holding the mirror while you remove the bolts. The insulation tends to be a bit sticky, so just pull the mirror away from the door with a slight force, and the mirror assembly will be in your hot hands.
3. Now you can take the mirror assembly to a table so it's easier to work with. Pull the rubber insulation off the mirror assembly by pulling it off the tiny poles all the way around the triangular base. Then pull the insulation down the wires, working slowly as it's like rubber against rubber. Note if there's a pink chalk mark on the wire. The further away you can pull the insulation, the easier it'll be to work with the rest of the assembly.
4. There are 3 torx screws on the bottom of the assembly where the mirror pivot point is. One or more of them maybe covered with a black tape. Just remove the black tape far enough to un-screw the torx screws. Use the T25 torx wrench here. I'd pull the tape from the rear toward the front just in case if the tape don't stick very well when you put it back and the wind won't blow it off. Once the screws are off, wiggle the base away from the mirror assembly. You'll need to feed the wire through as it's a tight fit. Unhook the wire from the metal hook built into the bracket. You should also note a pink chalk mark here.
5. Use the small flat head screw driver and a soft thin cloth, slip under the mirror face from the bottom and carefully pull the mirror face off of the assembly. It is held in place by 2 clips on the bottom and 2 latches on the top that pulls out once the bottom is loose. There'll be 2 wires to the mirror heater element that can be disconnected. I'd use a needle nose plier for that as it's very tight.
6. Now you need to remove 3 screws that are located at the outter most of the motor assembly. There's no need to remove the 3 inner screws that keep the motor on the motor assembly as seen in the video. There's a 4th screw that holds the motor assembly on the bottom of the mirror assembly where the pivot bracket is. That screw is very small, so be careful. Wiggle the motor assembly and pivot it so that the pivot bracket will come through the mirror housing and the whole motor assembly comes out.
7. If you have an '06, there's a black sensor strip mounted on a white casing on the back of the motor assembly. This will get in the way of the new LED cover. Follow the posts above to properly move it out of the way of the new cover. I seem to recall that the '05 had the black strip vertical on the side of the motor assembly. So that should be fine.
8. Remove the old cover. It is held in place by 3 latches. Due to the curvature of the cover, it can seem a bit tight, but it'll come out with the proper force. By looking at your old cover, follow the pattern to put weather strips along the outter edge of your new cover. Also, put weather strips around the LED housing too. Install the new cover by matching the 3 latches with the holes and pushing it in firmly. Pay attention to the inside corner to make sure it goes all the way in.
9. To make threading the wire easier, I'd push the existing wire out quite a bit of the long shaft designed to keep water out so that you can push the new wire in as far as you can and pull on the existing wire on the other side to have the friction pull the new wire through. Pull as far as you can on the new wire to provide just a bit of slack on the inside. Now put the motor assembly back into the housing and put the 4 screws back on (3 large and 1 small on the bottom).
10. Hook both the new and old wires through the built in hook of the metal bracket. If you have the pink marking, it should be there. Then thread the new wire through the base. Put the base back in place and put the 3 torx screws on. Push the cover tape back on. As an option, you can now put electrical tape around the new wire enough to keep it dry in the event of water getting in through the insulation. Now thread the new wire into the rubber insulation and push the insulation back up the wires. You should stop at where the pink chalk mark is, if you have one. Then push the insulation back onto the base by matching up all the small holes with the poles on the base.
11. reconnect the heater element wires onto the back of the mirror face. There's no polarity here. Put the upper part of the mirror back onto the motor assembly and push the bottom in gently until the 2 clips on the bottom snaps in place. Don't mistake the clicking sound of the motor assembly moving for the clicking sound of the clips.
12. reassemble the mirror onto the door as the opposite of removing it. And follow the video on running the new wire in the door. Be sure to get the polarity correct when you insert the wire pins into the connector. The red wire need to be connected to the red, and the black to the black. The pin should go in flat (horizontally) toward the top of the connector.
13. To access the BCM unit (If that's where you want to connect to the turn signal, as it seems to be the easiest compared to the location shown in the video), first, you'll need to remove the door sill panel. It is snaped in place by a row of clips, so you can just pull it off. Then you'll need to remove the side panel that has the fuse panel. There's one screw holding that panel. The screw is located just above the foot rest pedal. Use the phillips screw driver to get that screw out. Then the rest of the panel is held by clips, so just pull it off. Then you'll see the BCM unit and the 2 big connectors going into it. Use the pictures in the previous posts to locate the brown/white and green/white wires for the turn signals to tap into. Don't forget to connect the ground.
I know it sounds and looks complicated, but it's not. The whole thing took me about 3 hours. 1.5 hours on each door. But I was pretty cautious and took my time. So an experienced person should only take at most an hour each door. Now go and make sure you have all the proper tools, and then have fun.
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No, I never did. What actually happened is.. well I won't get into details but the bottom of a truck's passenger side mirror swiped the top of my drivers side mirror one day. Not sure what that did but ever since then, I don't really hear the whistling, maybe once or twice every blue moon. LOL of course, the truck swiped my mirror housing and totally missed the clear bra thats on it. :roll: Sorry I couldn't help.
I thought about bringing it in for the dealer to take a look at, but now that its been damaged.... i figure theres no point.
I thought about bringing it in for the dealer to take a look at, but now that its been damaged.... i figure theres no point.
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10,995 Posts
Well... with the LED mirror covers, they had 2 things that had to be fixed... first was to put a caulking around the LEDs so there was no way wind could get into the mirrors... which you guys don't have to worry about... 2nd thing they did was add some weatherstripping between the mirror housing and the stuff inside... if turbulence is causing wind to go into your mirror housings that might be the cause of the noise... I would try opening it and taking a look at the condition of the weather stripping inside. You may have to replace it if it's in bad shape or not making a good seal... at least that's where I'd start looking...
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