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Here is a list of random mechanical issues with my car. My driver side window was slow to roll up, I would have to shut the car off for a bit and turn it back on in order for it to roll up.
About a month ago, my car would not start, no power, only flickering lights along the inside by floor where it says infiniti. The alarm would randomly go off and then the car would start. My first thought was my battery in the key fob, changed it, nothing. Called a locksmith and got a new key. We had to jump the battery to the car to get it to start. It ran fine for a few days, then the same issue happened again. Took it to a shop and they said that my sensor had fallen off under my break pedal and that is what was causing it, i don't think that was correct and was charged for it. After this it ran fine for a few days again but noticed it was beginning to be a bit laggy. Car started the same thing again with it not starting and the alarm randomly was going off then it would start again once alarm would go off. I got a new battery for the car, ran fine for a couple days, same thing. Parked it for a few days and then no life to it at all, tried to jump it - nothing. My mobile mechanic checked all fuses, all seemed fine but something is drawing the battery. Got a stronger battery charger and car started finally, drove it a few miles and all seemed ok until all lights interior, dash lights and exterior went out, car slowed down and then I pulled over and parked it. Jumped it again-nothing. We checked all fuses on IPDM. Not sure if there is an electrical issue? alternator? some unknown fuse? body control sensor? cam shaft sensor? A month of this and super frustrated. Any thoughts? May have to take it to a dealership. Thank you in advance.
 

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I think it is likely your alternator.
 

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The first thing I would check is; do you have the right battery for your car? The right battery would be the one that you obtain from the dealership. I had some of the problems you have, and I tried to avoid going to the dealer because I believed it would be more expensive than the other source. The one I got was not adequate, and the problems continued. I finally took it to the dealer for a battery change out. The Infiniti battery was a higher rating than the ones I had been getting from another source and incorrectly matched it to my FX35. The Infiniti battery was the correct rating and a lot cheaper than the other ones. The problems went away. I returned the wrong battery, which had 24 month warranty, and received a complete refund.
 

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In addition to my last remarks, it must be understood that an incorrect battery may not be powerful enough to sustain all of the electronics in your vehicle. Which may result in a drain when the car is not in use, even overnight, and can lower the capacity of the battery to perform, including starting, among other demands.
 

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The first thing I would check is; do you have the right battery for your car? The right battery would be the one that you obtain from the dealership. I had some of the problems you have, and I tried to avoid going to the dealer because I believed it would be more expensive than the other source. The one I got was not adequate, and the problems continued. I finally took it to the dealer for a battery change out. The Infiniti battery was a higher rating than the ones I had been getting from another source and incorrectly matched it to my FX35. The Infiniti battery was the correct rating and a lot cheaper than the other ones. The problems went away. I returned the wrong battery, which had 24 month warranty, and received a complete refund.
This exact same thing happened to me when a "random" battery from .... was installed. I had 12 months of issues, mainly the battery dying when car sat for 2 days or longer...
 

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When the shop replaced your brake pedal "stops" that was because your rear brake lights were alwasy on even when the key was "off." This lead to your battery going dead. So you have to look for other possible battery drain problems.

Note: All our 10+ year old cars will need to have these plastic brake pedal stops replaced soon. They crack with age. And if you find plasic pieces on your driver's mat then you know this is the problem, in addition to your brake lights staying "on" all the time. Amazon sells them cheap. Search for Part #46584-5P010.

All 12V batteries are basically the same. They are rated in various ways, but as long as you have enought Cranking Amps any battery will start your car. And since the OP changed her battery with a new one, that rules out the possibility of an internal battery short. Or the new battery has a short too, which not out of the realm of possibiliites.

All batteries also have an AMP-Hour rating, but typically only Marine or Deep Cycle batteries list this information as these batteries are designed differently and can handle low current draw (like a boat radio) for long periods of time vs. a car battery that is designed to provide cranking-amps to start a car and are usually sealed batteries that do not require adding water.

If you suspect you have an internally shorted battery, I would go to a battery shop or Les Schwab or evan a Napa store who should have a tester that will put a "load test" on the battery to check for internal shorts. Usually it's a free service they provide. Even Walmart's with a auto-center will do it most of the time.

In addition, I like using one of these USB+Voltage meters to keep an eye on my alternator output too & if your car does not have bluetooth you can buy one of these accessories to measure your battery voltage and connent with your radio so you can bluetooth connect to your cell phone:


or this one with bluetooth...


So after you know your alternator is outputing 13.8V or more, then you can almost rule out the alternator, but not entirely. The problem is that the internal voltage regulator has diodes that can fail and when this happens they will drain your battery voltage down overnight... even though your alternator is working fine. Usually, however, when these diodes fail so does the alternator output and you have to replace the alternator or you can bring it to an alternator shop and they will overhaul your old one.

THIS HAPPENNED TO ME TOO: Just last weak my battery was dead in the morning, but the night before I noticed my dome light was not working after a pressed that 2"x2" switch (lens) to my dome light. At first I thought my bulb burned out, but when I went to replace the bulb, I I found the light switch was stuck or shorted out??? I know this beause I got the bulb to turn on-and-off so it is definitely not a bulb problem. That said, I also found my battery charged up fine by just driving the car, and the next day it started normally. So the stuck light switch was shorting current to ground and this solved my battery drain problem. Maybe you will find this is your problem too??

Video on replacing all your interior lights:

* So I would verify all your interior lights work and that the switch is in the "off" position and then stop using that dome light and/or shoot some electrical cleanier on the switch. My guess is that these high-current bulbs cause the switch to oxidize faster and 10+ years later it will stick and short to ground.

Last but not least, if you think you have a short in your system (somewhere) that is intermitent, that's a real Pain In The Ass (PITA) to find. You first have to wait until your battery goes dead over night. Then hook up your amp-meter in series with the battery. Read the current draw. And then start pulling fuses, one at a time, until you see the current draw go away. Then you just found your circuit you need check.

In the OP's case, here window motor is not working the way it should and a slow motor is a sign some current is being shorted to ground. So that is where I would start. And if you don't have enough tools or experience to diagnose, then you can try "isolating the problem" by removing the fuse to the window and see if your battery remains charged for days-on-end. You will not have windows that work, but that is probably easier then removing the door panel to unplug the wire harness to the door motor. ...And in the begining you are really just "fishing" for the right circuit. So I would pull the fuse first. And then find the thread on how to remove the door panel after you are reasonably confident you found the sort to ground that causeing your battery to die overnight.
 
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