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Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys, about two weeks ago I had a problem with my wife's FX35, one ignition coil went bad so I replaced it and the car ran perfect!! well this past saturday we went out and the car started to idle funny again! So I turned off the engine and started it up again, the car stumbled for a few minutes than it died!! After that I could not get it started again, so I ended up towing it home. I found that 4 ignition coils burned out this time, and when I was stuck I tried starting the car many times and that's what caused the other coils to burn out, smoke came from number 2 coil pack!!! Frustrated, car is not under warranty anymore, I have ordered all six coils and I read up on alot of postings and have decided to change the alternator too! going to change also the valve cover gasket for I have seen some oil in the #5 coil pack area, and changing all the belts. What causes the coils to burn out like that? is it a bad alternator? is it a bad ECM? is it a bad ground? Very frustrated!!! Please help me!!! Thanks Everyone!!! :(
 

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I am hoping you tried the search function and found the only thread on here about multiple ignition coil failure: viewtopic.php?f=2&t=22463&hilit=burn+coil

Obviously this is a rare problem. It could be any of the things you suggested. In that linked case it was a bad alternator.

Get a multimeter out and test the alternator output.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks for the tip, but the car won't start so I can't test the alternator. I figure on removing the alternator than having it tested. Is this a good idea? I'm not a mechanic so I am not sure. Should I also use 6awg for ground? and is it easy to change the alternator? I checked in the engine and looks like there are only two bolts holding the alternator in and the one tension bolt, is this correct? or is there more to it than that. Thanks again for the input!
 

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There's a couple of things that typically cause individual ignition coil failure, but multiple simultaneous failures? I can't even fathom how alternator failure would cause that. I'm trying to conjure a mental image of a basic electrical schematic...what about the VR? Isn't that between the alternator and the electronics? If it was one or even two I'd suggest checking the spark plug gaps (some coils are susceptible to heat-related failures with gaps greater than spec) or the ground path. I don't know what the coil grounds look like in the VQ engine - do they all connect to a ground bus which then connects to the frame? If that's the case maybe look at that common connection bus. What else is common to all six coils? The ECU and alternator, and that's about it. Sounds like a good idea to get the alternator tested - just make sure you mark all the mounting points so you can re-mount it into the vehicle as close to the position it was in before you removed it. Other than looking at a schematic I don't have anything other than this to offer. Good luck, and let us know how you make out.
 

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Just a quick FYI - the valve covers are sold with the spark plug gaskets already installed. You can't buy the OEM sparkplug seals only, but I have read about an aftermarket option. Anyway if you want OEM, you have to buy new Valve Covers - about $400.

The large gasket between the valve cover and the heads is available separately.

I ran into this issue recently. Stumped on the coil packs though. Most mega auto parts stores can test your battery and your alternator if you bring it in to them. For sure Pep Boys and Auto Zone.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
@ psychopike, Thanks for the help, what's the VR? and I believe the reason I had multiple coil failure was because I kept trying over and over to restart the car. originally I think only one coil went out, than I decided to turn off the car and I tried restarting it, it started up and Idled really bad than I believe one more coil went out that caused the car to shut down, after that I kept trying to restart the car and I got the rubber burning smell again, thats when I believe I burned out another coil! I tried again later and I actually seen smoke coming out of the #2 coil!!! anyway Thanks again for all the input everyone! hopefully I get the coil packs in today.
 

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MrGav757 said:
@ psychopike, Thanks for the help, what's the VR? [snip]
VR = voltage regulator...but again, I'm not sure how Nissan achieves voltage regulation in these vehicles. Johnmax?
 

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Voltage regulator IC is built into the alternator.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Ok I removed the alternator and had it tested twice, and the alternator passed. Voltage Regulator is good too. I grinded all of the ground points in the engine bay and hooked them back up, bought new plugs, and ordered new valve cover gasket, now just waiting for the ignition coils to come in so I can install them. Hopefully this works if not I will be back asking more questions :( Thanks everyone for your input!!! :fadein: one more question, where is the fuse box?
 

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MrGav757 said:
one more question, where is the fuse box?
One in the drivers foot well, two in the battery compartment. You need to pull the trim off to find the second one.
 

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Or Johnmax... :?
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Hey guys, I reinstalled brand new plugs, coils, valve cover gasket, checked the alternator and tried starting the car today and still no start!!!! :x And one more coil burned out!!!!!, What the **** is going on with my car? need to go buy a scanner and scan the codes
 

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how did you check the alternator without the car running?
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Now code reads P0113 IAT sensor, could it be my ecm is all screwed up?!!! :( how much is it for a new or refurbished ecm? anyone has an idea where I can get one? or should i just bring it in to a mechanic and have them fix it? Huh this is frustrating!!!!

This morning I turned the key on to ignition but not trying to turn over the engine but still one coil seemed to be buring again?!!! Wow I am so Frustrated!!! Can I still get a extended warranty now even if my car is not running? Thanks again for your help any input is most appreciated.
 

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Try some junkyards if you need an ecm
 
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