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Super service saves the day.

Well Infiniti and the dealer (I'm not sure it's prudent to identify them) stepped up to the plate and between them hit a grand slam.

My car has had a new long block installed at no cost to me. Estimates are that this saved me around $7k of repair work.

Infiniti provided the block and the dealer used the mechanics 'downtime' to install. Whilst the approval and installation was going on (4 weeks+) I was provided a loaner from the dealer. I am beyond impressed.

The lesson to be gained from my experience was the use of main dealers for all of my servicing , really paid dividends. (Remember my car was outside of the official warranty period). It saved a huge amount of grief and money.

Nevertheless, Infiniti could have been a real bitch about my problem- they weren't- and my hat is off to Infiniti for doing the right thing. Similarly the dealer for supporting my cause without compliant and providing labor and loaner.

Finally in my gushing, greatful state- I will tell my friends, I will continue to use the main dealer, and I will post this satisfied conclusion.

THANK YOU.
 

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So the main question I have is: How can any of us prevent this congestion from occurring in the longblock when our vehicles have 100K+ miles??
 

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woh, that makes me wanna flush my cooling system now, before any issues :)
 

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Discussion Starter #24
Overheating FX 35 Finally Fixed

Finally, it appears that my FX's overheating problem has been resolved. The dealer (with some "assistance" from Infiniti's customer service group) had to change one of the engine cylinders to fix the issue.

Since April 27th, they have changed: two radiators, bled air out of the system twice, changed fan and then idler pulley, but vehicle overheated after each attempted fix.

During this last visit to the dealer, the vehicle has been undergoing testing, diagnosis and repair for just over 12 weeks, but I had a loaner vehicle (almost new G35X) to use in the interim.

Picked up vehicle on Saturday; only small glitch was that the power steering cap had been replaced by some plastic wrap and rubber bands; that was properly fixed yesterday.

All repair costs have been taken care of by Infiniti Consumer Affairs group, even though my FX has 131K dealer-maintained miles (note that I even had the coolant system flushed last year, so this maintenance apparently does not avoid the problem).

It looks like Infiniti finally has arrived at a solution for the problem.

Good luck to all with this issue!
 

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Hi I have had the same problem. I have done all of the above but have the gasket replaced. I also put a new cap on ,new rad.,new Hose. You name it and it is still doing it. Any more suggestion? ::?
 

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I was told I had a lot of air in the engine to let it run and it will get it out. It still seems to have air(i guess). Does anyone know how to get the air out?
 

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If you have done everything and it still over heats then maybe its some sensor. I dont know the specific one's by name but I had a very similar issue with a celica and it turned out to be 2 sesors that were bad. Maybe get the MIL codes and see if that points to any thing...

Good Luck!
 

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Kinda scary reading about how the long block had to be replaced on one and a cylinder was replaced on another... makes me wanna go put some additives in there or something, just in case...

aellis2430 said:
I was told I had a lot of air in the engine to let it run and it will get it out. It still seems to have air(i guess). Does anyone know how to get the air out?
Not sure how to get the air bubbles out, but someone once mentioned a coolant additive that helped the coolant "stick" better to the internals of the radiator allowing for much better cooling... don't remember the name of the additive now though...
 

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ok here it what it is doing. I can drive it with the heater on. As soon as I go about 7 miles if that it goes to blowing cold air and goes to over heating. I lift the hood but I have not lost any fluid at all. The reservoir is full and then when it cools down it sucks it back over, and I am good to go another 7 miles. I also run it and take the cap off the radiator and can see air bubbles coming up. You can also here it bubbling.
 

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Sounds like air in the coolant. Perhaps you need to see a better mechanic?
 

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Bubbling?? It shouldnt be bubbling...if your seeing constant bubbles in the reservoir then thats a sign of a blown head gastket! Better pray its not that. Thats a crazy expensive fix $$$$$.

Normally if you open the radiator cap while the engine is running you will see a steady movement in the radiator fluid as it circulates through the block but it shouldnt look like blubbles rising...because as air escapes from the radiator your fluid level should go down.

Blown head gasket will cause a car to over heat because the raditor fluid start leaking into the cylinders and air from the cylinders start to come out through the radiator thus preventing the radiator fluid from cooling the engine effectively. Depending on how large the head gasket leak is your symtoms will vary but eventually once it goes pretty bad your exhuast will start smoking like carzy because radiator fluid is being burnt in the cylinders and your car will quickly overheat.

Now if you only have air in the radiator if you recently had it changed, the way to get rid of air from a radiator is to simply open the radiator cap while the car is cold then turn the car on and wait for the fluid level to go down as it start circulating through the block as the air will escape through the cap opening...just top off with fluid so the radiator stays full to the top. Then shut off the car and put the cap back on. Be careful not to open the cap while the engine is hot, it will burn you BADLY!

Good Luck!
 

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I have also notice that when me heater is on and blowing hot air the car is fine, but as soon as it goes to blowing cold air I know it is getting ready to do the same thing. Also I thought it would run hot all the time if the head gasket was blown??? ](*,)
 

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Well depending on how bad of a headgasket leak you have...it will overheat accordingly. If its very tinny maybe a pinhead like leak it will take time for it to over head as most of the radiator fluid is circulating. Also 7 miles is nothing if that's longest you have driven to test this overheating problem....depending on if its highway or street mileage. If you are driving 7 miles on the highway then its overheating very quickly, if its 7 miles on the street which usually is more stressful for a engine then its not as big of an issue or leak just yet. Eventually it will get worst.

I think I've seen some bottle of stuff in auto stores which "supposedly" seals any leaks. Even head gasket leaks. Maybe you might wanna try that if you really think its the head gasket. Just keep in mind that the longer you let it over heat and leak the more "warp" you will cause on the head and then the shop will have to send it in for resurfacing which will cost you even more. If you catch it early enough sometimes you can get the gasket replaced without had to resurface the head. It will still be costly though since they basically have to take the whole engine apart to change the head gasket which is a $10 part :(

Just make sure its the head gasket and don't jump to any conclusion. I don't think these engines have this kinda major issues unless you have abused the sh*t out of your car.

Good Luck!
 

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Hey I just thought of this. Before you jump to any conclusion get your radiator pressure tested to see if there is any pressure leak. If there is then that will tell you if there is a head gasket leak or some other leak in the system. If there is no pressure leak then its not your head gasket and you can breath easy. Then its probably your water pump, thermostat, some hose or faulty solenoid some where.

- Ken
 

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aellis2430 said:
I have also notice that when me heater is on and blowing hot air the car is fine, but as soon as it goes to blowing cold air I know it is getting ready to do the same thing.
Had an old Isuzu I-Mark that had a blown head gasket that did the exact same thing. Once the heat went cold i knew it was time to pull over and add coolant! :roll:
 

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ok That was my wife talking to you. OK I can run this car in my drive way for a hour at 2000 RPM with the heater on blowing out hot air and as soon as I drive it the coolant recovery gets full and there is no circuilation and the heater blows cold air. When I see the temp go up I pull over and turn it off and then 30 secs later turn it back on and the temp guage reads normal It I undo the cap and let some air out and let it set the coolant finally comes over to the radiator. If it is a blown head gasket it would say hot and not cool that quickly right? Also if it is a sticking thermostat it would cause it to blow cold air and not create circulation within the recovery system and radiator right? I have tried everything but i know there is air in the system and I have let it sit and run at 2000 rpm until the heater blows hot air and it runs completely fine until i drive it which might be the reason with the load I put on it driving that it sticks?!? Also we have never had a overheating problem until the radiator and thermostat was replaced last week xmas eve. Now it won't run right. Also I think he might have put a higher thermostat in it which could be causing these problems. What do you think?

Thanks again for the help and advice!!
 

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aellis2430 said:
Also we have never had a overheating problem until the radiator and thermostat was replaced last week xmas eve.
Probably a dumb question but why would you replace the radiator and thermostat if you didn't have any problems?
 

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Well after reading all your explanations I think you still need to start from the basics again. Get it pressure tested and see if you got a leak. If you dont then we can start eliminating some other items. If you have a fairly new thermostat then its probably not that. You can have a bad water pump which might not be circulating the air properly...

Get the pressure test done. Shouldnt cost you much...
 
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