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Discussion Starter #1
I would first like to thank Andrew for coming down and helping us out with the prototype. A complete gentlemen.

Specs on the kit:

13.1" x 1.25" Directionally Vaned 2 piece rotor. (OEM rotor is over an inch smaller in diameter and almost .25" inches thinner and weighs 3 about 3 pounds heavier a piece!!!!)

4 piston Forged Aluminum Caliper (Caliper weighs about 10 pounds lighter than OEM single piston cast caliper)







If you got any questions, let me know :)
 

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wouldn't it make sense to "weld" this thread in with "Wilwood Big Brake kit for FX - need vol." before they get seperated? (better to search for and learn from)
 

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PINITI-FX said:
wouldn't it make sense to "weld" this thread in with "Wilwood Big Brake kit for FX - need vol." before they get seperated? (better to search for and learn from)
How about just a link to the original thread: http://www.infinitifx.org/phpBB2/viewto ... 7472#17472


Doc, I see the test FX has aftermarket wheels. Can you confirm that the stock wheels (both 18" and 20") will clear this kit?

What is the price set at?

What kind of pads are you using?

Plans for a rear kit? It'd be great to save that kind of unsprung weight on the promary drive wheels (esp. for us RWD owners).
 

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mustgofastr,
that is my car that doc used for the mock up today.
if i remember correctly, this kit will fit the stock 18" and 20" wheels.
doc is planning on a releasing a rear kit also in the near future.
pads are from wilwood.
docofmind (sherwin) is a great guy with an awesome product. cant wait til i get the brakes on the car.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
MustGoFastR said:
PINITI-FX said:
wouldn't it make sense to "weld" this thread in with "Wilwood Big Brake kit for FX - need vol." before they get seperated? (better to search for and learn from)
How about just a link to the original thread: http://www.infinitifx.org/phpBB2/viewto ... 7472#17472


Doc, I see the test FX has aftermarket wheels. Can you confirm that the stock wheels (both 18" and 20") will clear this kit?

What is the price set at?

What kind of pads are you using?

Plans for a rear kit? It'd be great to save that kind of unsprung weight on the promary drive wheels (esp. for us RWD owners).
The kit is designed to work with the factory 18" and obviously 20" wheels as well. The pads we are using for this kit are the Q pads from Raybestos, the largest brake manufacturer in the world. These pads are a ceramic base with a higher temp rating than the OEM but are dustless and noiseless as well. All while being completely rotor friendly. If you need track pads for any reason, we obviously have those available as well, but for this application, i dont see the need.

As soon as Jeff works everything out with the administration of the board we ll have a GB set up for this kit. Pricing will be anouned at that time but just to give you an idea, it will be less than $1400 for the entire front kit including stainless lines hardware and pads for a direct bolt on affair with no modification required.

We are also almost finished with the set up as well. Its exactly identical to the front kit. Same caliper and almost the same sized rotors, just a little narrower for weight reduction. Remember though, the front kit is independent of the rear kiit. The front kit is designed to work with the stock master cylinder and does not effect bias or proportioning of the vehicle.

If you need any more info, let me know :)
 

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Would be great if you can combine it as a set for front and rear setup. I personally think that both front and rear would look nicer.

Jim
 

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Discussion Starter #9
jimsbmw said:
Would be great if you can combine it as a set for front and rear setup. I personally think that both front and rear would look nicer.

Jim

Be patient young jedi, the rear is coming :)
 

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I want!! :D
 

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Any chance of just offering a slotted/drilled rotor upgrade for the rear that will keep the stock caliper? Maybe a good low cost alternative to a full 4 wheel kit to just get the front kit and simply upgrade the rear rotor and paint the caliper black (or whatever color the front kit is). You'd get the matched look without the cost of a full kit (not like the rear brakes do all that much anyway).
 

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Discussion Starter #13
MustGoFastR said:
Any chance of just offering a slotted/drilled rotor upgrade for the rear that will keep the stock caliper? Maybe a good low cost alternative to a full 4 wheel kit to just get the front kit and simply upgrade the rear rotor and paint the caliper black (or whatever color the front kit is). You'd get the matched look without the cost of a full kit (not like the rear brakes do all that much anyway).
You actually would be surprised at how balanced brake systems are these days. Especially on a RWD vehicle. But your right, the front does do most of the work.

I feel that most people would be interested in the set up you are describing which is why we do of course offer slotted only or drilled and slotted rotors for the rear to match the front. Brake pads and stainless lines for the rear are also available.
 

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Cool. In your opinion, would going this route still maintain a balanced system (I assume it would since you'll offer the front kit alone...)?

Maybe you can offer a package deal for the fronts and rear rotors/lines/pads as well?
 

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Discussion Starter #15
MustGoFastR said:
Cool. In your opinion, would going this route still maintain a balanced system (I assume it would since you'll offer the front kit alone...)?

Maybe you can offer a package deal for the fronts and rear rotors/lines/pads as well?
Exactly, the front kit is designed to work independantly of a rear kit. OEM pedal height and balance will no be effected. Only an increase in feel and pedal modulation.

Once we have the GB up and running, complete packages will be available. :)
 

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Sweet. Keep us posted. 8)
 

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Is the rotor a floating 2-piece design? If not, how do you account for the dissimilar thermal expansion between cast iron and aluminum?

Why is the caliper upside down in the pics? You need the bleeding screws in an upwards orientation so you can actually bleed out the air bubbles. With it facing downwards like it is in the picture, you're gonna have to waste a bunch of brake fluid to try and bleed that caliper properly (if you can at all).
 

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mhgsx said:
Is the rotor a floating 2-piece design? If not, how do you account for the dissimilar thermal expansion between cast iron and aluminum?

Why is the caliper upside down in the pics? You need the bleeding screws in an upwards orientation so you can actually bleed out the air bubbles. With it facing downwards like it is in the picture, you're gonna have to waste a bunch of brake fluid to try and bleed that caliper properly (if you can at all).
The rotors are a fixed mount 2 piece design. We choose to go this route to save you guys money. We could easily go to a floating mount design but would end up raising the cost of the kit as well as raising the cost of replacement components for something that is not needed. The rotor will never see temperatures to justify this. Even if you were tracking the car. How do I know, because I track my S2000 regularly using a similar design. We also have a few 350Z's and a RX8 in our fleet that are being tested and measured regularly at the track to ensure the components hold up to repeated beatings at the track. All of this testing is done at the Streets of Willow in So Cali. For those that dont know this track, its extremely tight and technical and very very hard on the brakes. By using a proper and effecient design, the rotor never sees the temperatures to necessitate a full floating design.

Keep in mind though, that since these are still a 2 piece design, the rotor and hat do have a little room to breathe compared to a 1 piece full cast rotor. You also get the benefit of much needed reduced rotational mass which is essential in improving handling and overall performance.

In regards to your question concerning the mounting of the caliper, you are absolutely correct. Its upside down. The photos were simply taken to give you guys an idea of what they pieces look like mounted. In actuality, the rotor is also for the opposite side. Good eye ;)
 

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I've seen lot's of people using G-Tech for 0-60 runs. Has anyone performed 60-0 tests? I'd be interested in knowing the baseline stopping performance of my car, as well as with aftermarket brakes. If possible, the tests should be done with the stock 20" tires.
 

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dinofx35 said:
I've seen lot's of people using G-Tech for 0-60 runs. Has anyone performed 60-0 tests? I'd be interested in knowing the baseline stopping performance of my car, as well as with aftermarket brakes. If possible, the tests should be done with the stock 20" tires.
The primary purpose of larger brake systems is to allow for consistent braking performance, not to shorten 60-0 brake distances. Some kits do shorten the 60-0, some do not. For most cars, tires are the limiting factor in 60-0 performance.

What you really want is to have the same stopping distances from the first 60-0 compared to your 10th 60-0. For most factory brakes, the added heat of repeated high speed/high effort braking will induce brake fade fairly quickly since those brakes are not designed for 'racing' use. Aftermarket kits can minimize brake fade by using better materials to absorb and dissapate the heat created from braking.
 
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