Infiniti FX Forum banner

21 - 40 of 52 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
325 Posts
Yes, that's the one I am getting. It has wired output so looks easier to tap wires in than with RCA outputs
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
325 Posts
I'll try to take some pics when install.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
325 Posts
SDguy:
I thought of a question: So the line level converter is installed between the BT kit output and the input of Amp. Then will it also reduce the rasio output signal when the BT kit is not in use?

PS. Here is the FX wiring codes in case you dont have it.

 

·
Registered
Joined
·
147 Posts
Discussion Starter · #25 ·
I have never used the BT kit but that is a good question. Mine is a Motorola T730 and I am going to use 2 4PDT miniature relays to do the switching from the head unit to the cell audio. Let me think about your kit. If you put the attenuator in line with the cables going to the amp, you will be able to lower the cell volume. You'll then have to check to see if you still have enough volume for the radio using the radios volume knob. If it cuts the radio level too much, you will have to insert the attenuator in the audio lines coming out of your control box and leading to the Mute cable they gave you. In fact, that might be the best way to do it. Can you send me a wiring diagram of the connector going into your control box? If there are only two cell audio leads, you might be able to get away with using one pair from a line level converter and not need the 4 pair in your case. E-mail me so we can continue the conversation off the board. We'll then get back here and post our contraptions in a week or two for others to use :) Howard
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
325 Posts
My BT kit's wiring diagram can be found on the first page of this topic.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
147 Posts
Discussion Starter · #28 ·
My phone is finally in and works great- see attached. The car kit mutes the radio on incoming and outgoing calls and the audio comes out of the front and rear Bose system. Crystal clear cell audio. I didn't need to connect the cheesy motorola speaker as I've had to do on other installs. Very slick.

Warning: A cell phone install in an FX is not for the faint of heart. The main problem is that there are about 9 connectors on the back of the radio/AC control unit/ display screen. The wiring harness has only about 2-3 inches of play, which makes working back there a real nightmare. Most other cars I've worked on have an few inches of harness and you can basically work on the thing more comfortably.

I used the Panavise bracket rather than the Pro-fit since the Panavise puts the phone a little lower down. There is plenty of room behind the NAV screen and this is where I put the small Motorola junction box and my custom circuit board that switches audio from the headunit to the cell phone during cell activity. When I have some time, I'll write up the install in detail. Howard
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
325 Posts
Congrat!! looks good. Now I need to do mine...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
147 Posts
Discussion Starter · #31 ·
Hi Wilmer. I should have acknowledged that you helped me immensely off of the forum and I couldn't have done this without your help. Do you ever drive down to San Diego? I owe you a lunch and a consultation on your Parrot cellkit if you still need it. Thanks again, Howard

ps - here is the mic placement. Easy as pie to install....
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
325 Posts
I've been to San Diego couple times. It's a great city and I want to go again.

Anyway, you poke a hole on the roof liner to install the mic?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
147 Posts
Discussion Starter · #33 ·
Yep, just cut a small hole slightly smaller than the mic diameter using a razor blade. I then used a stiff wire to fish the mic cable out the headliner at windshield. I then ran the wire down the A-pillar. I thought I would have to drop the reading light unit, but didn't have to get behind the mic at all. The headliner is the usual material, so I could just push the mic in to a snug fit and it is there to stay. I used pieces of foam on the wire every foot or so to prevent vibration noise. A beige trim piece can be used to cover that spot in the event I sell the car. Of course, the Panavise bracket is removeable as well without any damage.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
147 Posts
Discussion Starter · #34 ·
A couple of people have written for more info about the cell install. The Panavise mount is model 75130-603 and I ordered it from Panavise directly - see http://www.panavise.com/f/comm/indash/i ... 9704679423
and their phone number is (800) 759-7535
It was about $35. I had ordered the Pro-fit bracket too $46 and sent it back - not as nice a mounting location as the Panavise.

The circuit board I made looked like this: http://www.members.cox.net/plasman/muteharness.jpg
although the final version was mounted in a plastic box and the leads going to the connectors were made longer so this unit could be mounted in the space behind the NAV display. I can post the schematic and board layout for anyone who needs it.

The connectors can either be Scosche NN03B and NN03BR or Metra 70-7550 and 71-7550. The other wires you see are the audio from the cellkit and other wires going to the cellkit : +12v red, ground black, Switched accessory 12v power green, and mute orange.

SDGuy
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2 Posts
Howard
Have ordered the relays from Mouser (Omron) and the harnesses from Valco Electronics (Scosche) but would appreciate supplier for resistors (50ohm 1/2, and 500 ohm). My HF kit is the motorola s9703 which I think is an earlier version of your s9708 with (I hope) similar electrical characteristics.

I'm going to see my installer tomorrow and talk to him about all this stuff to see if he thinks he's up to it. Thanks for all your help.

Jake
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
147 Posts
Discussion Starter · #37 ·
Jake, you are brave indeed to order parts before finding a willing installer. As I mentioned I provide this circuit as-is and although it worked for me, I can't guarantee anything. It was a tough install - electrcially and physically.....

The resistors are all Radio Shack. I think they had a 47 ohm and 470 ohms - which are the ones I picked up. I also got the 1N4148 diode there. I'll post the schematic tomorrow. You can get a small circuit board at Radio Shack too to wire up the circuit. I went a little crazy and made the board using an online service called ExpressPCB.com. I designed the board using their software and it is a ton of fun to use -better than a video game. They charged $63 to make me 3 boards. I could probably be talked out of one of the boards, but again it would be at your own risk and all that. I'll post the schematic and a pic of the board tomorrow. Howard
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
147 Posts
Discussion Starter · #40 ·
This is what an earlier version of the device looked like. In its final form, the connectors have 2 feet of cable length on each connector and some parts changed. It also got put in a plastic box - a modified audio cassette plastic case. The device basically gets inserted in the between the radio and the harness leading to the amplifier. When a call comes in, it breaks the connections to the radio and inserts the cell audio in its place. Again, if anyone tries this, you do so completely at your own risk. I'm not an engineer and I don't play one on TV. I'm a ham radio operator and therefore good at breaking things :) Howard

 
21 - 40 of 52 Posts
Top