Infiniti FX Forum banner

1 - 12 of 12 Posts

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
2,122 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Just installed my LED turn signal last night, having a little problem right now when turning, the lights are blinking rapidly while during hazard its blinking normal.

Car is back in the shop trying to get that problem solved.

Jim
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
105 Posts
you're talking about the fronts then? or is this happening in the back lights too?

this is what freaks me out about the FX......the tech is so advanced that i'm worried about messing with it! I want to mod my veh, but i'm worried about what side effects will happen. let us know the update about this. thx
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
2,122 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
I am talking about the front signal lights, but the bulbs are not bright enough.

Jim
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
2,122 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
Yeah, I ordered the load resistors from superbrightled.com.

Jim
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
549 Posts
Yeah . I believe that they are 6 Ohm @ 50W load resistor kits pulling about 2 Amps to mimic stock halogen bulbs. LEDs pull only ~20mA. There is nothing difficult with the wiring on the FX35/45 as it's very easy just to swap bulbs, add a load resistor tap and modify any lighting. On the other hand, for any late-model Mercedes, it's a complete nightmare as every circuit has current and voltage sensing as well as voltage balancing between say the left and front clearance lights.

I know hehe. A $800 experiment with a 6000K HID fog kit, (2) 1 [email protected] 250 W military grade resistors, (2) 2 Ohm @ 50W resistors for LEDs and nothing to show for it. Plus 2 weeks with myself and (2) well-versed Audio guys trying to make it work. We were successful although the resistors overheat after 20mins. 6000K HID fogs and LEDs don't work at all. Oh well extra kit for another vehicle........
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
2,122 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
The led end up not working well, it looked great but when the signal is on, you can hardly see it and so I took it out.

Jim
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
549 Posts
jimsbmw said:
The led end up not working well, it looked great but when the signal is on, you can hardly see it and so I took it out.

Jim
Isn't that a 15+ LED for the 7440 turn sigs and it's still not that bright?
I went with just the Stealth Amber/Chrome turnsig bulbs and find them to be perfect rather than going the LED route.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
2,122 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
Yes it is but because I am running 6k HID for and 10k headlight the light covers over the turnsignal, even with it on you can not see a glow at all from the led, in the day time its not too bad, but compared with the PIAA 7440 turn signal I like it brighter especially with all the motor scooters flying past me all the time in Taiwan.

Jim
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,159 Posts
RU_MATRX said:
An $800 experiment with a 6000K HID fog kit, (2) 1 [email protected] 250 W military grade resistors, (2) 2 Ohm @ 50W resistors for LEDs and nothing to show for it. Plus 2 weeks with myself and (2) well-versed Audio guys trying to make it work. We were successful although the resistors overheat after 20mins.
Did anyone consider a three-terminal voltage regulator? That would have presented a constant-current load to the original circuit, while giving you the required +12v needed to run your lights.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
549 Posts
I did briefly discuss alternatives with a service tech guru @ Beverly Hills MB. The main problem may be the current-sensing CAN subsystem as both voltage and current are monitored on the original bulb base and even detects balance differences between the left and right bulb. Pretty frustrating overall. The only way you can make the system work properly is to have the original bulbs (not fuses) simultaneously functioning along with the new LED or HID foglight kits.

Thanks for the input. I'll ask if a voltage regulator maintaining constant voltage may offset the problem? Current draw is really the main issue. Generally, V=IR, P=I^2R so continually surmounting current draw eventually creates thermal overload on the resistive heatsinks. Given constant voltage, current and "initial" resistance, maybe a voltage regulator can offset the decrease in resistance over time. Food for thought.
 
1 - 12 of 12 Posts
Top