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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I just bought a new 05 FX35. I hate the Bose system and see that some of you have after-market subs and amps.
How does one interface and aftermarket sub with the factory system?
My Bose system has a sub-woofer pod located above the spare tire. It has wire running to it to which I would like to connect a powered sub. (Infinity makes one with a 10 and a passive radiator that would be perfect!)
I know that Bose usually uses low impedance speakers to gain amp power and that they usually equalize the signal running to their speakers.
I don't want to junk the factory system but need some boom-boom!
Thanks to all!
Ron Johnson in Katy, TX
 

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I wouldn't splice into any of the current speaker wires including the one to the sub. I had the Infinity self powered BassLink sub installed originally but then replaced it with a separate Amp (JBL 600*1) and two Infinity Perfects dvc 12's in a sealed configuration setup. Both times were installed by a shop that wired them directly from the headunit. The BassLink actually sounded better than I expected especially considering the size (around 1cubic foot) but wanted more boom boom so I had it replaced with the current setup but first went with a single large box then replaced the single heavy box with two more maneuverable ones. Not sure if cutting into the current speaker/amp lines might affect the resistance.
 

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I put a sub in a while back and in my thread are the wires you need to connect a sub using the connector that goes to the stock sub. I basically just tapped into this connecter and have not had any problems with it. I don't see why you can't use this connector anyways. It's already routed to the back for you and supplies the + and - signals required for any amplifier. This means that the hardest wiring job will be routing a power cable from the battery to your amp.

Anyways see here:

There are 5 wires that go to the stock Bose sub. All you need to know is these 3 wires:

Black = Input -
White = Input +
Pink = Amp On Signal (remote)

Take note that using the remote line means that the amp will turn on when you turn ur car to ACC or if you start your engine regardless on whether or not the headunit is on.
Click HERE for my full install. Scroll down to the post on Jun 22, 2004 at 12:54 am and that's where you find the quote from above.

A couple posts down and I explain how I routed the power cable as well. Probably come in handy for those who are gonna go the DIY way.

I don't think this is the guide you are all looking for, but maybe it's a pretty good place to start?

Gd luck and post pics!
 

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well, i built a homemade sub this past summer. it was a fun experience and it soounds great. i used two JL audio 8" dual coil subs and wired to get 4 ohms.

i tapped directly into the sub wiring. i used wire taps from radio shack and tapped into the + and - and remote wires (white, black ,and pink when you peel back the black wrapping on the stock wiring). i just used the pink remote line to start my JL 250-1 AMP. the wiring part was pretty easy actually (for a not electrical guy like me) and the harder part was my multiple attempts at building a air sealed enclosure.

i finally decided on making a stand alone box with two separate sealed chambers based on the exact speaker specs from JL.

the end result was fantastic :)

no matter what you do, you are going to have to wire power from the battery to the back. take off the black plastic cover over the battery so you can see a rubber grommet behind the battery. if you cut a slit in that and then push your power wire thru, it will fall to a space in the passenger footwell, behind the plastic panel at the right side of the footwell. just take this panel off (just held on with clips and screws) and you can then pull the wire thru. once you do that, you can take off the sill plates on the doors and the lower b-pillar panel cover and tuck the cable under there.

everything should just snap on and off easily for you.

good luck!
 

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basslink sub

i hooked up an infinity sub to the factory bose sub output for some reason the basslink is on but there is no sound. this is intermittent. sometimes the bass goes away if i turn the radio up to much the bass returns after i turn down the volume, and sometimes it the sub doesnt put out sound for a day after i turned up to loud. i dont think it is the sub as i tested on an alpine deck in another car , icranked it with the gains and bass boost all the way up and it cranked! is there any quirks with the bose sub output? i hooked the bose + out to both rear + inputs on the hi level basslink input and the bose - to both rear - inputs on the hi level basslink input .

any ideas assuming the connections are all well soldered?
 

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did you also tap the pink wire? this one is what sends a signal to power on the sub. i wonder if this subbox you have has a setting for this signal like most amps and its not getting the signal.
 

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the infinity basslink has a auto sense switch that turns the sub on when it sees a signal. i tried the auto sense method and I could use a LOC but i shouldnt have to. When it works it sounds great.

Any one have any ideas?
 

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Re: basslink sub

benjr said:
i hooked up an infinity sub to the factory bose sub output for some reason the basslink is on but there is no sound. this is intermittent. sometimes the bass goes away if i turn the radio up to much the bass returns after i turn down the volume, and sometimes it the sub doesnt put out sound for a day after i turned up to loud. i dont think it is the sub as i tested on an alpine deck in another car , icranked it with the gains and bass boost all the way up and it cranked! is there any quirks with the bose sub output? i hooked the bose + out to both rear + inputs on the hi level basslink input and the bose - to both rear - inputs on the hi level basslink input .

any ideas assuming the connections are all well soldered?
Sounds like you have a defective Basslink. Intermittent problem is a real pain to troubleshoot. Can you exchange it for a new one?
 
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