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mkozie7 said:
Anyone with an '05 with the black dash experiencing the bubbles appearing? Happened right about the Nav screen first, then the air vents started, now its out of hand. Infinity said it was a third-party company that created the dash, and they are not liable for it. Some 40k!
Yes do a search for other threads about this. We have many. Feel free to add your experience there.
 

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mkozie7 said:
Infinity said it was a third-party company that created the dash, and they are not liable for it.
BTW, you might want to take it to an InfinitI dealership and see what THEY say... :p

Joking aside, that's BS... take it to another dealership... do a search and read up on other experiences people have had... print off the threads if necessary and take it to a GOOD dealership to get your car fixed...
 

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If you need OEM parts cheaper than from the dealer, search the Internet for "infiniti parts" and you will get several sites that are cheaper. I just replaced my driver's door lock actuator and rear door (hatch) finisher trim strip (both with intelligent locking). I have the shop manual on CD but this forum (as always) provided helpful information that made the job go quicker and allowed me to bypass the dealer.

One tip for someone about to do this: BE SURE to remove the window glass before you remove the inner metal panel, and even before you disconnect the wiring (so you will be able to roll the window down). It will save you hours of grief. The glass is held on with only two bolts: to see the front one, remove the speaker; to see the rear one, remove the round black vinyl sticker covering the access hole. You don't need to remove any of the copper bolts in the center to get the inner metal panel off. Ask me how I know.
 

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Had the same actuator issue on a 2004 FX35 (front left and rear right doors) - after some serious procrastination and checking with the dealership ($400-500 per door installed!!!) and a the local mechanic I use for oil changes etc (~$120 labor per door plus the actuator parts), I contacted a local reputable window tint shop (that also does alarm and audio/video installations). They use after-market parts, charged me $85 per door installed, with a lifetime warranty to boot. This definitely seems like the most economical option if you're not willing to spend the time (or take the risk) of doing it yourself, and I'd recommend you check with a local car electronics installer.

Good luck to everyone who has been hit by this seemingly common failure point.
 

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Saether-

Was that $85 per door including all parts, i.e. including the actuator? If so, that is a phenomenal deal. Even if the actuator is extra, that's a good tip - I will look into window tint shops around me. My front drivers side door lock has slowly withered down over the last month.
 

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I just purchased an '04 FX35 with 84k miles and it seems as though all of my door locks, including rear hatch, work and don't work at random whether using the keyless entry or the door switch. I talked to a mechanic who thinks it may be the control unit which controls all the locks however, just the part is $300 from the dealer and it cannot be returned if the new part doesn't fix the problem. After reading everyone elses posts it appears that the FX is notorious for having bad actuators and am wondering if anyone has had to replace the brain that controls all the actuators and had success with their locks after that or if I'm actually going to have to replace all of my actuators.
 

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NewToInfiniti said:
wondering if anyone has had to replace the brain that controls all the actuators and had success with their locks after that or if I'm actually going to have to replace all of my actuators.
Some have noticed that it appears that ONE actuator is affecting the others... the only problem is trying to find out which one... not sure if it's this thread or another one, but someone had multiple locks acting up... after replacing ONE actuator all of them miraculously started working fine...
 

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Mine have been giving problems for some time now but since the driver's door opens reliably I'm not too worried about the rest of them. They all work perfectly when the temperature is lower than about 40 but once the temp starts to go up they quit working starting with the passenger front then the rear doors as well as the rear hatch. This is on a 2004 with 67,000 miles. The dealer wanted about $2000 to replace them all so I declined that invitation. I grew up without power locks so I am familiar with reaching across to open and lock. No big deal. When I get ambitious I will figure out what the ambient temp has to do with their operation but until then I just keep limping along. :lol: :lol:
 

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Just as a post script to some of the above; I think if I replaced the passenger front actuator the rest of them would work. It's the one that starts the whole mess so I think it may be the culprit. If I do replace it I will post the results.
 

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Ambient temp will definitely have an effect on the internal parts and any tolerances, including expanstion and contraction of the parts. They wear as they age, and any small gap due to temperature will definitely affect operation.
 

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My Driver actuator and Rear Passenger actuator started to act up as well.

I am now forced to go "old school" and lock / unlock my Driver door with the key :oops:
 

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BTW, for those that are having this problem... does it make a sound every time you try to lock or unlock the doors? I'm starting to have a problem with my locks but I think it might actually be a problem with my aftermarket remote instead of the actuators... at least that's what I'm hoping...
 

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No sound on mine, but I know they are trying to open since it sometimes moves a quarter of an inch. If i get really lucky and press the unlock button several times it eventually opens all the way ::?
 

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Mine just started to act up - front pass. side. Will not lock/unlock even when using the lock button on the drivers arm rest. Also effects locking/unlocking the trunk. All other locks work fine. 'sometimes' it moves a little, but not all the way.

Temps around here have been nice and toasty - 90-100 degrees and a few hundred % humidity for the last 2 weeks or so. Actuator just started acting up over the weekend.
I also have after market remote starter.

Is this something easily fixed/replaced?
 

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As far as I can tell the dealer wants about $500 per lock to replace them. Seems like a lot to me. I have no trouble reaching over to flip the lever. It is a bit of a hassle to reach into the back seat but if I unlock all 4 doors the rear hatch opens right up. The gas door always opens with the key fob. Mine is for sale so I not going to spend any more money on it. 2004 Laser Red 20" factory mags, no tech package, but everything else you could get in 2004. 71,000 miles, full synthetic oli, 75% rubber, great brakes. Cold A/C $17,500 I have an ad on this site also.
 

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Yea I finally have one acting up a tiny little bit. But it only took 7.5 years and 135k miles so thats fine with me. Just gotta move the carseat to the other side :D
 

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Not sure if it's my actuators or my remote starter FOB... every once in a while, ONLY when locking the car, the car beeps and NO doors lock and there's NO sound from the actuators... but if I press the lock button again, it will lock ALL the doors... there's not ONE door that seems to be acting up... so I've been guessing that it's something with my remote starter/alarm not talking to the car properly... but not sure how to fix it... :(
 

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Quick update. I had aftermarket actuators installed on the driver's door as well as the rear right door at a local reputable window tint/alarm/stereo shop - total cost per door, parts & labor was $85, lifetime warranty. After a few months they started failing again, I went back and they tried to address it (made some adjustments, I believe, at no cost to me). The actuators worked fine for a few more weeks, then started failing again. After a few more back and forth visits to the shop, I've given up and purchased the OEM actuators from Infiniti Scottsdale at $186 a piece and have so far installed the driver's door - not very difficult.

Not sure why the aftermarket ones wouldn't work properly. They moved back and forth ok, but clearly there was some lack of accuracy in the mechanics. Btw, the way they had installed it was to disconnect the factory actuator, strip about an inch off the lock cable (the portion between the actuator and the inside lock lever), and connected the aftermarket actuator to the exposed cable. Perhaps that is a flawed approach.

Just as an FYI to those of you who are having the infamous actuator issue and are considering OEM vs aftermarket solution. As for me, I think I'll get a store credit from the tint shop and get my front windows tinted instead...

Best of luck to all!
 
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