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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi,

The rear passenger door actuator failed recently but was working manually and opened/closed fine. I purchased an OEM door lock actuator for it and was going to change it myself. Unfortunately the door is now locked and I can't unlock it at all. Manually locking/unlocking does nothing and using the inner or outer handle also does nothing. I was able to pull the door panel off from inside the car while locked. I pushed/pulled on the lock/unlock cable as well as the handle unlock cable, outer door lock and still nothing. I even switched the child safety switch button back and forth while trying to manually open the door but didn't work. I can hear the actuator making noises as I pull the handles/cables but it never releases the lock. Just wondering if there is any other way of disengaging this door lock from the inside? The dealer wanted 2 - 2.5 hours of labour at $118/hr just to replace the actuator. If I bring it to them like this it's going to cost a fortune.

Any ideas would be appreciated.

Thanks.
 

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Borrow someone and have them push near handle while you open from inside?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Unfortunately the actual locking mechanism is stuck in a locked state. Pushing from inside, outside or heavy banging on the door near the lock doesn't even get it to budge. I think I'm either going to have to obliterate the actuator and try to move the pieces manually or drill/cut the actual latch from the inside.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
FIXED IT! With the door panel removed I hammered the plastic casing with a long screwdriver/hammer. Ripped almost all of it off piece by piece exposing the internals. It took a while but once in I was able to partially unlock which allowed the door to open about an inch. With further manipulation I was able to push pull some mechanical parts allowing it to unlock all the way. Overall about 2-3 hours in total and no need to have my money ripped from my wallet at the dealer!

Thanks for the suggestions.
 

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I'm having the exact same problem, after taking out the actuator to examine the inside handle cable for problems unlocking the door.

Now i cant even open the door with the other cable either that was working before. After messing around with the small torx screw on the side of the actuator(turning it left and right), and forgetting to put blue loctite on the torx screws when putting it back in, my door is stuck.

Anyone have info on removing the rear window and window regulator? Its a little different then the front windows, from my experience installing the $5 aftermarket actuator.
Can you tell me where you banged your actuator and did you do any drilling? Thanks.
 

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FX35 All locks moving back and forth by themselves!

Just bought a 2007 FX35 yesterday. I heard clicking noises while sitting inside and from the outside of the vehicle. My husband said "Don't worry about it." (He's in the car business) I go in the garage this morning and hear this constant clicking with the loudest coming from the driver's side rear door. The locks are actually moving on their own back and forth! I tried everything to make it stop. Apparently, this went on all night and killed the battery. Had to disconnect the battery to make the constant clicking stop. Does anyone have this problem or know what to do? THANKS!
 

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I found a company that makes a repair kit for the infiniti door locks . It hooks into the factory system and powers your door locks like new . It is quick and easy to install and cost less than $50 per door and they have a lifetime warranty . took me less than a hour to do and the kit comes with everything you need and has good instructions and photos .
Check them out USActuators.com
 

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I have the same problem - my mechanic wants $500 for each actuator.
I found a mobile specialist in my area who is much cheaper (he also does windows!) For some reason now the locks are working but my back gate is stuck shut. Would love a new Infiniti... but this is the only problem I have had in 125,000 miles. Kathy
 

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How did you resolve the tailgate lock issue?
I am struggling with same problem; lock is stuck - when button is pushed in the gate latch does NOT release.
The manual emergency lever inside the little window is also NOT releasing the Tailgate.

Any advise from anybody is appreciated.
 

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How did you resolve the tailgate lock issue?
I am struggling with same problem; lock is stuck - when button is pushed in the gate latch does NOT release.
The manual emergency lever inside the little window is also NOT releasing the Tailgate.

Any advise from anybody is appreciated.
Hello,
Did you problem i solved ? Because I have exactly the same :/
 

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I found a company that makes a repair kit for the infiniti door locks . It hooks into the factory system and powers your door locks like new . It is quick and easy to install and cost less than $50 per door and they have a lifetime warranty . took me less than a hour to do and the kit comes with everything you need and has good instructions and photos .
Check them out USActuators.com
[BUYER BE AWARE! of USActuators]

I bought a door lock actuator for my wife’s fx35 over 6 weeks ago and still haven’t received a confirmation email or tracking information.

I called 3 times and left messages, sent numerous emails and received no response.

I had to put a refund claim in with PayPal against them. Hope this helps someone else.
Bill
 

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FX35 All locks moving back and forth by themselves!

Just bought a 2007 FX35 yesterday. I heard clicking noises while sitting inside and from the outside of the vehicle. My husband said "Don't worry about it." (He's in the car business) I go in the garage this morning and hear this constant clicking with the loudest coming from the driver's side rear door. The locks are actually moving on their own back and forth! I tried everything to make it stop. Apparently, this went on all night and killed the battery. Had to disconnect the battery to make the constant clicking stop. Does anyone have this problem or know what to do? THANKS!
i know this is an old post. but I had same problem with an 04’ FX35 I replaced the drivers lock control switch which controls all four door locks and the control switch for the front passenger door and the intermittent lock unlock went away.
 

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Today my door actuators on all 3 passenger doors stopped locking and unlocking with my remote. However, the driver's door was working fine with the remote.

I think this condition started after i used the manual door lock switch on the door arm rest. (Not the manual lock-unlock tab where the door opener latch is located.)

My first thought was that there must be an electrical drain that is pulling down the voltage to the door actuator.

My second thought was that I have 1 door actuator shorting out, but now I think it could be a combination of dirty door lock switched like "seattletazman" said above.

In other cars I have had good success by pulling the switch cluster, removing the bezel if possible, and then just spraying a lot of electrical contact switch cleaner spay inside... and letting it dry for 10 minutes or more. Maybe that will take care of this odd door actuator issue? TBD

Note: Since my problem was affecting all 3 passenger doors, it couldn't be any one actuator unless one is partially shorting out or leaking current to ground.

If this is not it, then maybe there are so bosch relays that can be cleaned? Does anyone know which relays in the fuse box control the door actuators? ...Or is this a BCM function?
 

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2005 FX45 120K miles
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I found this thread by Dannae who wrote: My Guess Is That There Is A Thermistor n The Actuator That Fails Over Time... Just Like The Ford Truck actuators. That Is Why The Doors Tend To Work Better When it's Cold, But Quit As The Temperature Goes up.

...I too noticed this too!
...When the fob stopped working after repeated lock-and-unlock switching, it would then not work at all. And the condition would go away only to return when it got hot outside. So hummm....

A) You can replace the $15 motor inside the lock assembly; or B) you can replace the whole assembly for $119. I guess it all depend on how much work you wan to do.

Ebay $15ea:
Car Door lock Actuator Motor for Infiniti Q60 Q70 Q50L QX70 FX45 S50 SUV FX35 | eBay

$119 Door Lock Actuator Left Front.
Infiniti FX35 FX45 Front Left Door Lock Actuator 2003-2004 w/smart Lifetime | eBay

Here's a video showing same $15 actuator motor in a Luxus 400:

Part 2:
 

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2005 FX45 120K miles
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130 Posts
Yang put these steps together so you know how to pull your door cover off and how to get to the lock assembly:

 

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I would like to say, my door locks and unlocks fine in the morning, but on a hot day over 85F I find the fob will not unlock my passenger doors. I suspect the repair is not expensive if you replace the $15 motor/door, but it's a bit more effort than I am willing to deal with at this time. So what this thread needs are a few comments from someone who has replaced the door lock actuator and to comment on how easy this is or is not! THANKS!
 

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This is my first attempt to fix an intermittent door locking problem commonly to occur on hot days or when using the fob several time in a row.

COMPLAINT: All doors and the trunk door stopped responding to the fob, but only on hot days!

Why?

Most have attributed this to a bad door lock motor. And other's have suggested that one bad motor can affect the whole system. So where do you start?

First, I would try something else. Try removing the the master console arm set of switches (for windows and door locks) in the driver's door panel; and then undo the 2 electrical harnesses -- without removing the door panel. Just pop-up the group of window and door lock master switches and clean the contacts of just the door lock master switch. Easy!

* Use electrical contact cleaner as best you can to clean the switch contacts. And you may as a final step need to apply silicon if the switch plastic is affected by the cleaner and starts to stick after using the electric cleaner. TBD.

If you still find your fob is unresponsive on hot days, then you will need to proceed as follows to remove the door panel.

Remove The Door Cover/Panel


* Watch this video:

* Just remove the 3 door screws as shown in the picture below,

* Remove the master window control panel first. Just pop it out of it's normal position and you will have easier access the the electrical connectors this way!

* Do not remove the door locking actuator cables or mark them if you do.

Tip: Use a small screwdriver and squeeze it with one hand to depress the "tab" that locks the electrical connector in place.
* With the door panel hanging by the locking cables...

* Remove the three 10mm speaker screws, but not the speaker wire. Just let the magnet hold the speaker the the metal door frame...out of the way... while you reach in the speaker hole and remove the door catch. (3 bolts to remove first)

==> Then just spit the door catch assembly open by bending 4 tabs with channel locks. (Don't use a screwdriver and stab yourself!)

==> Then remove and flip the plastic parts over.

==> Then add two #8 flat washers to each side (total of 4 washers) which will act as shims... and that will put more pressure on the already worn plastic parts... hopefully making your door catch good as new! Reassemble. Easy-peasy!

IMPORTANT: Before you put the door cover on ==> initiate a "windows relearn" procedure as follows:

* Find and remove the quarter size (round) black tape cover which hides the relearn button. This cover and button is located about 8" from the speaker.

Why do this step?

1) It can't hurt and it may help both your window action and fix this door lock problem at the same time.

HOW? I hope the windows relearn might re-calibrate the BCM, but I really can't say for sure. I will know more over the course of the next couple weeks and if my intermittent fob/door lock/unlock problem is fixed. If is is fixed by doing this then I will say these measure are the cure for the problem. TBD.

CONCLUSIONS: If these steps don't work then your only other option is to either replace the entire Lock Actuator as a complete assembly, or you can take this assembly apart and just replace the locking motor inside. And if there is any truth to the possibly of one door like motor affecting all the doors, then I suppose I would replace the driver's side door lock motor first since it probably gets the most wear.

Good luck and let us know if any of these suggestions work for you!

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In my case, I have found that when I press the master door lock/unlock switch (driver's door only) some passenger doors will lock and other doors will do nothing. And when I press this master switch to lock/unlock the driver's door always works fine. So it would appear my problem is with the master door lock switch. (TBD)

However, if you are finding that only one door is the problem them maybe that door has a bad thermistor inside the door actuator motor and here's a video on how to fix it for free:


In my case, I think I need to replace my Windows Switch Master + Door Lock Master Set Of Switches, because I can't believe all 3 passenger doors locks and the trunk lock are going out at the same time. TBD. I have not ordered a replacement part off Ebay in the $30-$50 range, but I plan to.

Note: My early model 2004 FX45 takes a different Windows Master Switch part number vs. late model 2004 FX45; and it appears FX35 models take a different part as well. However, I did find my early model part number takes same part used on many (not all) 2004-8 Nissan Maxima vehicles. So be sure to identify the right part for your car before you order on Ebay. See attached picture for OEM Part Numbers and dealer prices for my 2004FX45.

2003- Early 2004 FX45 uses 25401-7Y000
Late 2004-5 FX45 uses 25401-CG700
Rectangle Font Parallel Circle Triangle


This is a very good website to find your OEM infiniti parts: Genuine OEM Infiniti Parts and Accessories Online - Infiniti Parts Deal
 

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