[kenju4u]

I noticed the caliper was removed from both bolts but the service manual seems to suggest (and I have seen it done on other cars and my maxima) to remove only the top bolt or bottom bold and hinge the caliper up or down and replace the pads.

Just wondering if thats more difficult or not possible in the FX? I am planning on doing my brakes tomorrow and wanted to do the quickest method.

- Ken

 

[jerrysanta]

Yes, you can remove just one of the bolts and swing the caliper out of the way to replace the pads. That's what I did when I changed mine.

 

[johnmax]

Yes, you can remove just one of the bolts and swing the caliper out of the way to replace the pads. That's what I did when I changed mine.

+1
thats what i do every time.

 

[kenju4u]

nice thats what I did too...faster too!

 

[Slavabon]

Were these RotorPros rotors you used in this set up? How was the initial break in - smooth and quiet or a bit rough?

 

[kstrawbridge]

Hello,
I'm working on replacing my rear brakes and cleaning up the rear rotors. Unfortunately I am unable to remove the rear rotor. I put the car in neutral as well as removed the parking brake and hit a few times with the dead blow hammer but not luck. Any help is appreciated.
thanks!

 

[pc9974]

Jr,FXer,
I tried followed all your steps,but I have problem with removed rear sets rotors, they're both just stick even Ebrake was off and hammer pounded crazy. Can you give me some expert , thanks.

 

[blucas]

This is a great posting, thanks for the information. I'm interested in doing a similar brake job, could someone please provide me with a link to order all the brake parts (rotors, pads, lines)?
Thanks for the help FXers.

B

 

[mikeebb]

I used these directions to change my front brake pads. They were very helpful. Thanks very much for taking the time and the photos.
I have two suggestions:
1. It works to leave the top bolt in loosely to hold the caliper, instead of a coat hanger, as one of the moderators suggested.
2. Instead of channellocks to compress the piston, I used a 6" C clamp, as suggested by the auto parts store. I used an old brake pad on the piston to distribute the pressure.

I'm not real handy, so the first wheel took quite awhile, but the second set popped in in just a few minutes.
Mike

 

[stongm]

I just replaced my rear pads and rotors and thought I would pass along this tip..... When removing the rear rotors they may be stuck and might be hard to remove,

Try this.... take off the caliper as described earlier and THEN pump the emergency brake down real hard 4 or 5 times, making sure when you are done that you fully release it. I think because you have the lug nuts off and the ebrake pads exert force upon the inside of the rotor, the torque of the application helps break them loose. After I did this, they slid off pretty easily.

 

[ncosper]

I did my brakes a little over a week ago and I read through this entire post and still ran into a little trouble with the rear rotors. I did everything from pumping the e brake, neutral, everything suggested and it wouldn't budge. I beat on the stupid thing for about 30 minutes until my finger was bleeding. I finally just lost it and hit the rotor has hard as I could physically hit it. First try with a lot of force and it popped right off. The first writeup which is great really shows how relative the works tapped is. Tapping my socket wrench to loosen the bolts was more of a major swing with a hammer! One of the bolts was to tight I had to use a jack on the socket wrench to loosen it up, insanely tight!
Just be careful to hit the rotor only on the rear brakes and if needed, swing away they will pop loose.

 

[VOODOO]

so i attempted to do a front rotor and pad replacement on my 2006 on the weekend and i ran into a massive problem.....

first off, the bolts to take of the calipar on my FX are 17mm bolt, and these ones that are mentioned below on my FX are 19mm... what year is the orignal posters FX.... could the bolt sizes have changed??????????????????

anyways on to my problem...
i got to this step,

Brake, Rotor and SS Line R&R DIY

SECTION 3.1: FRONT ROTOR REPLACMENT.

You should have just taken the caliper and pads off from section 2. Now your ready to take the bracket off the car. Take your 1/2 ratchet with your 22mm socket and place it on the bracket not. These not are pretty tight so I took the mallet to them to brake them loose.

and when i tried to remove the bolts they were just on tooo tight..... i could do nothing to budge them, i even went out and bought a 300lb tq impact wrench and it still wouldnt move. any suggestions as to how i can get these bolts off, without taking the car to the dealership......

 

[VOODOO]

i really need help.. .any answers would be greatly appreciated.

 

[LaXmAn]

i really need help.. .any answers would be greatly appreciated.

try PB blaster you can buy it at your local auto store (pepboys)

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0010E ... FW7QK4VQQ8

 

[VOODOO]

thanks....

 

[LarryW]

Another suggestion is to use a cheater pipe on your ratchet handle to provide additional leverage.

Measure the widest part of your ratchet's HANDLE, go to your nearest HW store and buy a piece of heavy/thick conduit pipe; slide the pipe (cheater) over your ratchet handle and see if the bolt budges (it should). It helps to have a ROUND handled ratchet (but this should still work for your ratchet that you show in the pic).

My cheater pipe is about 2 feet long and worked perfectly for this job; back in the day (auto shop in HS), we had several length pipes with one measuring about 5 feet long that worked beautifully for removing hub/axle nuts...

Good luck!

Larry

 

[DatMan]

Another suggestion is to buy a proper "breaker bar"... they're kinda like a socket wrench but without the ratcheting part... get a good one and you should have no problems removing the bolts... using a normal socket wrench I nearly killed myself removing my little cousin's rims... (damaged after hitting a HUGE pothole)... and had ZERO problems removing them once I used a good breaker bar we bought at a local auto shop... and it was cheap... like $15 or something... just try to get the biggest one possible (longest handle) as that also helps with leverage...

 

[VOODOO]

thanks for the help guys... i used some of that PB buster last night and managed to get 1 of the 4 bolts (2 on each side) that hold the bracket to the car. however i still need to get the other 3 off.. ill go buy a breaker bar and then try it and report back....

ill be dammed if i have to go to a shop to replace my brakes for $200ish just because i can't get a stupid bolt off my FX.

 

[VOODOO]

Just wanted to say thanks for all the suggestions... i went and bought an adjustable breaker bar from our local parts store.. and the thing worked perfectly, and was much cheaper than the impact gun that i had bought...

brakes have been changed, and i no longer have any steering wheel shudder...........

thanks to the OP for the instructions... very very easy to follow.

 

[DatMan]

i went and bought an adjustable breaker bar from our local parts store.. and the thing worked perfectly

It's AMAZING how much better a breaker bar works over a normal ratcheting wrench... but it's true...