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Brake, Rotor and SS Line R&R DIY

So his weekend I installed my new dilled and slotted rotors along with new pads and SS brake lines. I decided to do a good DIY for you guys being that recently people have been talking about spending and small fortune to have their brakes done. I have even read people being quoted $225 to just have the lines installed. This will go step by step and tell you what you'll need and how to do it. I will be breaking it into 4 groups so if someone what's to just do pads or just rotors or just lines this will walk you through it.

I started by ordering my parts from a couple different people. I spend around $280 for the rotors and pads and $165 for front and rear SS brake lines A total of $445 for all brand new front and rear brakes, Not to bad.

OK I will first lay out a time line on how long it should take to do the job.

Replacing the front or rear pads only should take about 20 min per wheel, in under an hour you should have 2 done.
Replacing the front or rear rotors and pads should take you about 40 min per wheel, you should be able to get the front done completely within an hour and a half.
Replacing just the brake lines will take you about 20 min per wheel. Under stand you can just replace the lines with out having to do the rotors and pads.
Bleeding the brake system will take about 20 min to bleed all 4 lines. This requires 2 people to do. You will only have to bleed the system if you replace the lines but its a good idea to bleed the system even if you just replace the pads.

I am super anal and cleaned everything real good while I was in there. Doing my complete job at an easy going pace (unrushed) took me about 6 hours to jack up the car, clean the back side of all my rims, clean the wheel wells, R&R all the rotors, pads and lines, clean the brackets and calipers, and bleed the system and test driving the car.

Don't be rushed! Take your time!

Here is a list of tools you will need:

Front:
3/8 ratchet
1/2 ratchet
dead blow hammer (rubber mallet)
Channel locks
14mm - 3/8' socket
22mm - 1/2' socket
9/16 - 3/8' socket
3/4 box wrench
10mm pipe wrench
10mm closed end wrench
flat head screw driver


Rear:
3/8 ratchet
dead blow hammer
channel locks
14mm - 3/8' socket
14mm closed end wrench
10mm pipe wrench
19mm - 3/8' socket
9/16 - 3/8' socket
14mm socket
3/4 box wrench
8mm closed end wrench
flat head screw driver


So this is just about everything you will need to do a complete front and rear brake job. (hope I didn't leave out anything, sorry if I did)

Here are my rotors before, during and after high temp powder-coating.







The parts you'll need:



Start by taking off the center caps and loosening the lug nuts (just loosen don't take them off yet)



Jack up the FX and place on jack stands.



Take off lug nuts and take wheel off. I cleaned the back side of my wheels with a gentle rim cleaner and a wheel brush.

Before cleaning:

After cleaning:

What you'll you've got ahead of you:


Spray all nuts and bolts that you are going to be taking off with WD-40 or some type of penetrating lube. (KY does not work on this kinda penetration)



Do one wheel at a time!


SECTION 1: Brake Line Replacements.

OK time to start with taking the line off the caliper. Use the 14mm socket to take the banjo off the caliper. Put a bowl under the caliper and line to catch the brake fluid.






Next take the flat head screw driver and lightly hit out the clip holding the line.



Now the line should be hanging, take the 10mm pipe wrench and carefully loosen the top bolt from the line. (the pic shows old and new line)





Remove the clip that hold the top of the brake line. The brake line is now completely removed. (fluid will still flow due to gravity)





CHECK YOU FLUIDS! Due to gravity when changing the lines the fluid still flows. Keeping the reservoir full will help with bleeding of the lines cause there is still fluid in the system.



Now screw in the new line from the top using the 3/4' box wrench to hold the line and the 10mm pipe wrench to tighten the line. Don't over tighten it and strip the nut. Nice and snug. Now the passenger side I had problems getting the clip back on so I was able to get it to work upside down. The drivers side worked fine.



When putting the line to the second clip it doesn't have much line to the caliper. Just pull the line a little and it will slide through for more slack. Now place the line in the second clip.



Now place one brass washer on each side of the banjo on the end of the brake line that attaches to the caliper.



Now your ready to attach the line to the caliper. Remember if the line seems to short gently pull it at the center bracket for more to the caliper. The new bolt is going to be 9/16. Use the 9/16 socket to gently tighten the line to the caliper.



Your front lines are done. Now we will go to the rear and then we will go over the bleeding steps.

CHECK YOUR FLUIDS!

Spray all your bolts with wd40. Now this line has no brackets in the middle. The rear line is half the length. Take you 14mm socket and remove the bolt from the caliper. (remember to have a bowl under to catch the fluids)





Let the line hang. On the back wheel well where the line attaches to the car. Use you 10mm pipe wrench to loosen the nut off the bracket. Use you 14mm socket to take the bolt that is holding the bracket to the car and not the line will come off.





Take the new line and thread the nut onto the line. Take your 9/16 socket and place the bolt into the wheel well to hold the line in place. The use you 3/4 wrench to hole the line in place and tighten the nut with you 10mm pipe wrench. (GENTLE)



place a washer on each side of the banjo nut and use you 9/16 socket to gently tighten the bolt to the caliper.





You've completed replacing your lines. Now that should have taken you about as long as its taken to read all this to complete. Its very easy. For bleeding skip the next 2 sections to Section 4 bleeding.


SECTION 2.1: Front Pad Replacement and Caliper removal.

Now with the pad replacements you do not have to take the line off the caliper this will cause extra bleeding time. For people that have leases or just don't want to spend the money for rotors can pad slap. Its always recommended to at least turn your rotors if your going to keep the car. if not don't worry about it. This should only take 20 min or so to do. You have your wheel off, you'll see the rotor and caliper. on the back side of the caliper your see 4 bolts. 2 hold the caliper to the bracket and 2 hold the bracket to the car. Identify the 2 smaller, outer bolts. Use you 14mm socket to loosen the bolt. I taped the ractcet end with the hammer a little to break them loose.Once its loose you may have to use a 17mm wrench to hold the inner nut.







Now your caliper is free. If your replacing your lines take the line off the caliper and let the line hang over a bowl. If not I use a coat hanger to hang the caliper from the strut so it doesn't put the weight on the brake line.



Slide the old pads out of the holders.

**For those who are replacing your rotors go to Section 3.1 for the front rotor replacement steps and then come back to this part**



I took some silicone brake lube and but it on the back of the pad to keep them quiet. Make sure you put it in between the back of the pad and the metal shim. Then slide the pads back into the bracket holder.



Take the channel locks and close them on the piston on the caliper. Do it slow and gently. DONT HAMMER IT IN. Make sure your brake fluid reservoir isn't to full other wise it may over flow. Sorry I forgot to take a pic of this step.

Next take the caliper and put it onto the bracket, take the 2 bolts and tighten them down with your 14 mm socket. Use your 17mm wrench to hold the inner nut. Once the bolts are tighten down nice and snug your ready to move onto the bleeding section.




SECTION 2.2: Rear Pad Replacement and Caliper removal.

Doing the rear is pretty much the same as the fronts but I did run into some tricks I will share to save you some time.

Again their are 4 bolts, 2 to the caliper and 2 to the bracket. Locate the to that hold the caliper. Use you 14mm socket on the top bolt but the socket wont work on the lower bolt so you'll have to use a 14mm closed wrench.





Now your caliper should be off. Do the same thing you did with the front pads.

*For rear rotor removal go to section 3.2 and then come back to this part*

Take your caliper and again close the piston into the caliper with the channel locks. Slide the pads into the bracket and then bolt up the caliper. Make sure everything is good and tight.







Your now done with the rear pads, now got to Section 4 for the bleeding.


SECTION 3.1: FRONT ROTOR REPLACMENT.

You should have just taken the caliper and pads off from section 2. Now your ready to take the bracket off the car. Take your 1/2 ratchet with your 22mm socket and place it on the bracket not. These not are pretty tight so I took the mallet to them to brake them loose.



Once the bracket is completely off (2 bolts) this is what you should have taken off. I cleaned all my stuff real well with brake kleen and a brush.



This is how the rotor will look. Now you may be lucky and the rotor may just slide off. I had to use the hammer to break it free. a couple gentle hits and it came right off.







Slide the old rotor off and the new rotor on. You've just replaced the rotors, that easy. Now take the bracket and bolt it back onto the car and then slide the clips back in that hold the pads. Once you don't with this go back to the Brake pad section where you left off to put the pads on and remount the caliper.



Here's what a completed front rotor, pad and line replacement looks like finished.






SECTION 3.2: REAR ROTOR REPLACMENT.

OK so you just finished taking the caliper and pads off in section 2. Just like the front rotors you should only have the rear bracket on the rotor. Take your 19mm socket and again like the front gently hit it with the hammer to break it loose. Once its loose take the bolts off and the bracket should some right off.



OK now I pounded the rotor with the hammer a couple good times before I realized it wasn't coming off with the ebrake on so I released the ebrake and the rotor slide right off. Now this was interesting. I have done my share of brakes and never have I seen what I saw when I slide the rotor off. A second set of drum brakes inside the rotor. I assume its only for the ebrake. So clean the drum brake set up well by spraying only brake kleen on it. Once its all clean slide the rotor on.







Now bolt the bracket back on and go back to section 2.2 for the completion of the pads and and calipers.

What a completed rear rotor, pad and line job looks like.







SECTION 4: BLEEDING BRAKE LINES.

Bleeding the brake lines will take 2 people a wife or girlfriend is fine but she has to be able to listen and sit in the car pushing the brake for about 20-30 min. I started with the rear passenger line then moved to the rear drivers side then to the front passenger side and finished with the drivers side. Now if you did a complete line replacement this will take longer then just a pad and rotor replacement. The pad and rotor replacement you should not have taken the lines off so this is just getting out what little air is in the lines. Should only take a couple times to get all the air out.

REMEMBER CHECK YOUR FLUIDS!! If you run to low on fluid it will only suck air into the system so keep the reservoir full. I flushed my whole system and went through about 48 oz of fluid.

Lets get started. Have your lil helper get into the car and just start pumping the brakes, pump, pump, pump.

Attach a clear hose to the line for the fluids to drain through. you don't need a line but it will be messy so get a line. Don't get any fluid on your new pads or rotors. With the line attached and you 10mm closed wrench for the front and a 8mm closed wrench for the rear in place have her pump the brakes. Tell your helper to pump the brakes 3 time and hold it down while you crack the nut on the bleeder. The pedal should go to the floor. close the nut and have them pump it again and repeat.

I say pump it (pump pump pump) hold it crack it open wait a sec then close it, pump it (pump pump pump) hold it crack it open then close it. I would do it about 5 times per wheel if you didn't replace the lines and I would do it 2 sets of 10 times if you replaced the lines.

You want to make sure there is no air in the lines so doing it to much only cost you fluid so do it alot. Now I did 5 cracks with the engine off and 5 cracks with it on. Not sure if this is necessary but my brakes work great and well, that's how I did it.

Your only done when you see no more air coming out of the line. if you are still seeing air keep bleeding and keep checking the fluid.








YOUR ALL DONE!! Go back around to every nut and bolt you touched and make sure they are tight. Place the wheels on and take her for a test drive. the brakes may make a little noise for the first 20 miles or so but then they should quiet down and be perfect, Mine are! Sorry about any spelling errors.











 

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WOW!!!! Outstanding job on the DIY and pictures!!!!!! This will be very helpful for those that want to replace their brakes.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I will get some pics tomorrow of the rims on showing the rotors.
 

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Good job! Made it a Sticky, and corrected some of your spelling (its caliper, not caliber, btw- man there were a lot of those in there :wink:)
 

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Discussion Starter #7
johnmax said:
Good job! Made it a Sticky, and corrected some of your spelling (its caliper, not caliber, btw- man there were a lot of those in there :wink:)
Thanks for the editing!
 

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Hey B, that is a good write up, now you know who I'll call on when I receive my rotors. Dam good Job!!!
 

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Great job and pictures!! That had to be a lot of work - taking all the pictures and writing the text for it all! I'll bet you helped a lot of FXers with this article. As far as having a helper when bleeding the brakes, if you don't, get yourself a Mityvac. With it you can do it yourself. I used to have my wife do the brake pumping, but since getting the Mityvac there is no need. I think I have better control with it too, plus it's a lot easier. Super illustrations! Thanks.
 

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WTF!! I never knew how easy it was to replace brake pads. Pads were around $150.00 at my local Infiniti parts dept., 4 little packs of silicone brake lube $4.00 , can of brake fluid(only needed a little) $3.00, can of brake cleaner(to clean dirty shims) $2.00 and 3 hours of my labor Freeee. I think I saved around $350.00 doing this myself. Excellento write up!! :D
 

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Wow. Just noticed this post. This has my vote for 2007 post of the year.
 

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brakes r&r

Big thanks for this, it is great. I would like to do this on my FX and was wondering what color powder coat you used, and how do you like the way it looks with tires and wheels mounted. I also have the liquid copper FX and until I seen your pics was going to use black.
 

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replacing just the brake pads?

Can I replace/upgrade my pads without changing or turning my rotors? My fx has 60k, and the rotors are still in good shape.
 

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Yes, you can change just your brake pads if the rotors are in good shape. I did. My rotors were fine, so I just took some 220 grit emery cloth and roughed up both side of the rotors, cleaned with a mixture of dishsoap and water, and rinsed well.
I installed the Hawk HPS pads, bled the brakes, and took the car out to burnish the brakes (to seat the brake pads on the rotors.) The directions with the Hawk pads tell you how to do this. Very happy now with my brakes - no pulling, noises, etc. and they stop great!
 

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I have a question the SS brake line where do you buy, can i use the same for Infiniti G35 sedan or coupe because it's the same platform.
 

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After working on the brakes all evening, I have to say you were a brave man putting the FX on jack stands at all four corners. I tried it and the car started wobbling as I was jacking up the car to place the fourth stand. I decided to keep at least one wheel on at all times.

Good suggestion on the pump, pump, pump, bleed. My dad was helping me tonight and he kept telling me to open the line as he pushed the pedal down. Just before I ran out of brake fluid, I had him start pumping the pedal before I cracked the bleed valve and a lot more air started coming out. I'm sure I wasted a lot of time and fluid by not having him pump, pump, pump, from the start.
 

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Do I need to turn the rotors everytime? I change the pads myself but I cant turn the rotors....if I need to do that I have to goto the dealers...

- Ken
 

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Brake shops can do turning for you as well... don't always hafta go to the dealership for everything... and I've been told you "should" turn the rotors each time (according to by the book methods) but obviously from what a lot of people have done here, you don't need to turn them every time...
 

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^^^ Sorry, almost forgot to mention that rotors should be sanded each time to make sure you get off all the brake material from the last set of pads... then washed, and of course once everything is installed, the new pads need to be bedded...
 
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