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Discussion Starter #1
So, I was contemplating my next mod today (before deciding to bid on a 20th Anniversary Optimus Prime on Ebay; what can I say? Nostalgia got the better of me.) and since I had pretty much reserved to stay N/A b/c FI kits are just more than I want to spend, I found my thoughts wandering to NOS for the first time ( I always thought it was just for ricers, but am seeing it more and more in all apps.). I've never had it and never really considered it, so I'd have to bone up on the subject, but what do you think?

I realized, driving around today, that I really love the way my FX drives. I very rarely, if ever, genuinely want for more in the power, handling or braking departments. It would be nice to occasionally have a bit more down low for quick runs when I get the urge to just punch it and blow the doors off someone (not that I have a hard time doing that now), and thought NOS might be the answer. Cheap, easy, safe power and there are plenty of Z guys with tons of experience with it, so the homework is already done. I'm thinking of a 75 shot or so, wired to come on only during WOT and cut off below 4krpm; regular FX for daily driver with a hidden beast on tap when wanted. So? Is NOS for me? I'd appreciate any insight and experiences.

-MGFR
 

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Bottles are for babies :wink:
 

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mushutofu said:
Bottles are for babies :wink:
That's always been my thinking as well, but if you can get past that and look at the potential gains and benefits, it doesn't seem to be a half bad option, esp. if you're basically happy with your car as-is but would just like an extra kick when you call upon it. No potential side effects of some other mods (UR pully?), one-time install, doesn't make your car loud or smelly (headers, cats, exhaust), will give you more power on demand than all other bolt-ons combined and costs a heck of a lot less. What am I missing?
 

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MustGoFastR said:
mushutofu said:
Bottles are for babies :wink:
That's always been my thinking as well, but if you can get past that and look at the potential gains and benefits, it doesn't seem to be a half bad option, esp. if you're basically happy with your car as-is but would just like an extra kick when you call upon it. No potential side effects of some other mods (UR pully?), one-time install, doesn't make your car loud or smelly (headers, cats, exhaust), will give you more power on demand than all other bolt-ons combined and costs a heck of a lot less. What am I missing?
i think the fx needs a 150 shot as an option from the factory...

MGFR-- find out more!! wet versus dry (direct inj)...... maybe like a 80 shot?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
esemes said:
MustGoFastR said:
mushutofu said:
Bottles are for babies :wink:
That's always been my thinking as well, but if you can get past that and look at the potential gains and benefits, it doesn't seem to be a half bad option, esp. if you're basically happy with your car as-is but would just like an extra kick when you call upon it. No potential side effects of some other mods (UR pully?), one-time install, doesn't make your car loud or smelly (headers, cats, exhaust), will give you more power on demand than all other bolt-ons combined and costs a heck of a lot less. What am I missing?
i think the fx needs a 150 shot as an option from the factory...

MGFR-- find out more!! wet versus dry (direct inj)...... maybe like a 80 shot?
I'll definitely look into it more over the next couple of weeks. Of course this would be an option for the VK as well.

More benefits: it's compatible with all other bolt-ons, no worries about passing smog or getting a fix-it ticket for other mods, and it can be removed easily if you wnat to sell the car or go another route.

It obviosly isn't for someone who wants big gains full time, but like I said, I'm pretty darn happy with my performance as-is in most daily driving situations. I'll likely still look into other mods (most interested in the UR crank pully right now), but considering the amount of cash it would take to do headers, cats and exhaust (~2.5k), I could get a lot more bang for my buck with NOS and not have my bling ride sound like a rice factory or smell like a fertilizer plant (high flow cats are stinky). I like to stay stealth.

Anyway, I'll look into it and we'll see what I find out.
 

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I thought about this also, but from reading my350z, I read a post that said with 30 minutes of spirited driving you can run through an entire bottle. That kind of turned me off. I don't want to have to fill the NOS bottle more often than I fill up for gas...

Let me know if you hear different. I haven't spent much time researching it.
 

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If we were to run 50-100 shot of NOS I would go with dry. Very easy to set up and is pretty safe. Dry would only require you to tap into the intake pipe.
Zex makes a good easy kit. It is based on throttle so it only shoots the NOS upon sensing WOT. 75 shot of NOS would not be out of the question. It runs about 600 bucks.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
mushutofu said:
If we were to run 50-100 shot of NOS I would go with dry. Very easy to set up and is pretty safe. Dry would only require you to tap into the intake pipe.
Zex makes a good easy kit. It is based on throttle so it only shoots the NOS upon sensing WOT. 75 shot of NOS would not be out of the question. It runs about 600 bucks.
That's pretty cheap compared to a full block-back exhaust system which will get you maybe 25HP.

As for kiy type: this is what I need to bone up on. I've turned up my nose at NOS for so long, I don't really know much at all about it, such as how a wet kit works vs. dry.
 

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With a wet kit you spraying about anything above 125 shots. The thing with wet kits is that you need to spray directly into each cylinder via where the fuel and airis apryed into the cylinder. Wet kits cost a ot more and have problems in the long wrong without proper maintenance. PITA if you ask me.
Here's a wet set up

 

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BTW, this is what can happen if you install nos impropoerly...this is real **** that happened!!!!





 

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OMG! :shock:
 

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Discussion Starter #14
esemes said:
more please, MGFR!

maybe we can do this together??
Patience, man, I'll work on it. I actually like to do other things on the weekend than surf the forums all day. I save that for work! :wink:

YOU need to get off your butt and go do some runs with the G-Tech!
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Well, after reading enough of of the "The Big Bad Nitrous Post" to make my eyes about fall out of my head, I've decided N2O isn't something I want to mess with. As I said originally, I'd never looked into it before and never knew much about it. After looking into it just the small bit that I did, it doesn't look nearly as easy and cheap a mod as I originally thought. The thread IS good reading, though, for anyone interested (even explains what really happened in the pics above). Here were some points I took into consideration:

- wet vs. dry: Apparently, b/c our cars do not have a fuel return line, dry kits are out. Single nozzle, intake mount wet kits are preferred for anything 75 shot and less, beyond which you need the much more elaborate multi-port direct injection wet kits.

- Although you can pick up a basic kit or around $600, you need TONS of accessories to do a good, well tuned, safe install: window switch, bottle warmer, remote N2O pressure gauge, remote bottle opener, purge system, safety pressure release valve, blow down tube, colder spark plugs............. PLUS installation looks to be a PITA, so plan on paying for that as well as some dyno time for tuning. $$$$!!

- Cost of N2O and how long it lasts. Hmm... roughly $40 a fill-up or so for about 4 minutes (cumulative) worth of shots; not sounding too attractive to me.

If I could spend only $600 and install it myself, all of this doesn't seem to bad for the occasional cheap thrill, but from the looks of it now, it doesn't really seem to have a very good bang/buck ratio. No wonder I saw a lot of posts over there of people selling their kits and going for a supercharger instead.

From the looks of some of the stuff I saw and problems some people were experiencing, I think it would be easier to self intall a s/c (I'm more into nuts and bolts than tubes and wiring). Don't like the idea of running colder plugs with N2O, either; fine when you're spraying, but for the 99% of the time you're not, the colder plugs may not provide complete combustion resulting in loss of power. So, looks like I'll be sticking with the bolt-ons and consider starting to fill my piggy bank for a supercharger (or just go the route Esemes is considering and pick up a weekend toy to be my tuner car {a few years down the road}). Fun to look into, though and good info. to know.
8)
 

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hey MGFR--


i am very greatful to have you to help guide me (us)...

fuel return line?? splain??

i have a friend that added a 50 shot to his zx12R, for right around 500 (total)

gives him about 30 rwhp in all, and puts his bigbore kawasaki ahaead of most anything NA on the streets.....

i am still in limbo about what to-do myself; i await the BURU dealer's call to visit them.....

also, i am beginning to think i might stick it out a nother 6 mos. for the prodrive VK s/c idea...

i mean, all i (we) need is some fuel management..,...... the rest is basically just a few bolts, belts, adapter plate(s) and lube line (if needed) away from completion.... the VK motor leaves ample room for this idea also......

i read the 1st page of the post this a.m. and havent gone back since....

-eS
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Well, from what I gethered, A dry kit has to have some way of getting more fuel to the engine to keep the A/F ratio good when spraying. One method is to put the N2O nozzle before the MAF, so it senses more air and adds fuel acordingly, but I guess this is not the way to go on our engines; f*%ks up the MAF or something. The other way this is accomplished is by putting a solenoid in the fuel return line that does something or other... but we don't have one of those... anyway, it's in the first few pages of that thread. Ah, ****, let me look it up. Here's a bit. there's more where that came from; keep reading.

...almost all new cars today don't use return fuel lines which would be why you can only use wet or direct port kits on newer cars. On a dry kit, you would hook up a solenoid to the fuel pressure regulator to pump more fuel through the injectors... but since there isn't one in the engine comparment of cars with returnless fuel lines, then you would have to run one from the gas tank... which is kinda dumb since braided hoses aren't cheap. Anyway, that's my guess as to why there isn't anyone making a dry kit for the Z.
Basically, nobody does a dry kit for the Z. Not to say it can't be done, with some effort, but at that point a wet kit is simpler and fits the application best. Again, you can get the basic kits reletively cheap; it's all the other stuff that kills you.
 
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