[funsize]

I have a P0455 at about 153,500 miles. This is a code for a GROSS leak in the evaporations system and the top two components that typically fail to set this code are the gas cap or the EVAP canister vent control valve. The gas cap was tested and it is functioning properly so I bought a replacement vent control valve.

The EVAP canister vent control valve is at the rear of the vehicle on the passenger side just in front of the muffler. I can see the canister and the valve. Based on 12 years and 153K+ miles, the metal cover that protects the canister does not appear that it will be easy to get the 3 nuts off of the little bolts that are embedded in the underside of the vehicle so I tried to get my hands up inside to pull the rubber line off of the valve and rotate it counterclockwise as instructed by the repair manual. The hose came off and it is not cracked or ripped. The original vent control valve did rotate counterclockwise.

Now the questions or problems.

I do not have a large hand or "fat" fingers but there is very little room to work here. Also, even though the FX35 is AWD and has more ground clearance than a typical car, the vehicle will need to be jacked up some amount to provide some head and arm room.

Does anyone know how far the old valve needs to rotate counterclockwise to allow the "teeth" on the valve to disengage and allow it to come out? Because of a rather large body mount that is right next to the canister, that vent valve only rotates about 20 to 30 degrees with the canister still mounted in place. That doesn't seem like it would be enough to get the valve out.

I sprayed the three little nuts holding the metal cover on with PB Blaster and I am hoping that after waiting overnight or 24 hours, I might be able to get these nuts off without something old and rusted from snapping off. Originally, these nuts were probably 10MM. We'll see what socket fits on these.

I searched to see if anyone reported a P0455 or a replacement of the EVAP canister vent control valve but I did not see anything on this forum.

If anyone has replaced one of these can you tell me how much "stuff" needs to be removed to gain the proper access to this valve?

Thanks.

 

[funsize]

bump this post.

 

[funsize]

I just spent 2 hours removing 3 really rusted nuts and plastic fasteners that hold a metal cover and plastic shield that are at the rear passenger side of the 2007 FX35. I needed a 10 MM socket on my ¼ inch drive and my ⅜ inch drive. The nut in the far back holding the metal cover is above the bracket and hanger for the passenger side of the muffler. There is just enough room to put the ¼ inch extension through the bracket and I had to put the socket on once the extension was through the bracket. The removal of the plastic shield revealed 2 bolts that appear to be holding the entire EVAP canister in place. The canister needs to come out so that the vent valve can be turned counterclockwise enough to get it out of the canister. I think that the valve needs to turn 90 degrees and mounted in place, it will only turn about 20 to 30 degrees. I sprayed what I think are the last two bolts with BP Blaster and I'll attack it again tomorrow morning.

I am also hoping that the removal of the canister will give me the room and leverage that I'll need to get the electrical connector off of the vent valve.

 

[IlovemyFX]

Hi funsize. Sorry, I have not worked on or replaced anything in my EVAP system but I have heard that the valve replacement is fairly simple. It sounds like removing the bolts is taking the longest. I have heard that small hands make this one much easier.

If you haven't already done so, you will find a fair bit of info in the service manual. The EC (Engine Control) section has info on the P0455 code, diagnostics and removing and reinstalling the valve. They have the EC section available over at Infinitihelp.

https://x.infinitihelp.com/forum/local_links.php?catid=45

 

[funsize]

2007 FX35 Vent Control Valve Replacement Update

Ilovemyfx - thanks for the information. I have the entire service manual on CD, so I'm good there.

The amount of difficulty I suppose is all related to how old the vehicle is and where it's been driven all of its life. My FX35 has been in Pittsburgh, PA winters for 12 years. There is a lot of rust and corrosion after that time and 153K+ miles.

If all of the bolts and nuts were brand new, this job would probably take about 1 hour. I spent 7 hours. I had to soak all of the nuts and bolts with PB Blaster. There are 4 nuts that are fastened to bolts that are embedded in the underside of the car that hold the metal cover/shield/guard that protects the EVAP canister.

There is 1 bolt that holds the EVAP canister to a bracket at the outboard side of the canister at the passenger rear of the car. There is also a plastic shield held in place with 6 of the plastic push pin retainers. All of that has to come off so that you can drop the canister to be able to twist the valve assembly a full 90 degrees counterclockwise to unlock it from the canister. I could not turn the valve more than 20 or 30 degrees because it was stopped by a major part of the rear suspension (I think - It's a large thick aluminum cross member and body mount).

The bolt/nut for the canister and the bolt.nut next to it for the metal cover/shield/guard both snapped while removing them so I had to drill both of them out and replace them with new bolts, washers, and lock nuts. I have a special set of left-handed drill bits for the removal of broken bolts (these are not EZ-outs). Only after the original bolts were tissue paper thick did they break free in the threads.

The car is all back together and the P0455 code has been cleared. We'll see if it comes back on. I sure hope hot after all of that.

My bottom line is that anyone or any video that proclaims that this is an easy replacement is not working on a 12 year car that lives in snow country.

 

[IlovemyFX]

I hear you about the location and age of the car. Every one is different. I am very lucky to be driving a 14 year old low mileage FX that is garage kept and usually doesn't stray outside on cold, wet or even snowy days. On a scale from 1 to 10 it seems my FX would likely be a 1 or 2 and yours is a 9 or 10 in difficulty on this repair. Thanks for the update though. The one example that I could find for this repair was a California car and, unfortunately, we don't all live in California.

 

[funsize]

Very true - we all do not live in a dry climate. It isn't very often when you find a You Tube where someone has to show a repair where they deal with rust.

Anyway, I wish to report that after about 15 start and stop cycles and not sure how many miles, the check engine light remains off.

 

[ed303]

Hi folks,

does anybody know the Infiniti part number of the shield that protects the EVAP canister? Mine was totally rusted so that I had to remove part of it. I want to replace it now. My local Infiniti dealer was able not to locate this part.
I know my question does not fully match this thread, but I thought when you guys have already spent time at this area, you may have an answer on my question.

Cheers,
Edwin
German 2005 FX35 Driver since 2008

 

[ed303]

Hi folks,

does anybody know the part number of the shield that protects the EVAP canister? Mine was totally rusted and I had to remove part of it. I wanted to replace it, but my local Infiniti dealer is not able to locate this part in the Infiniti part database.
I know my question doesn't´fully match this thread, but I thought you guys have already spent time in this area and you may now an answer to my question.

Cheers,
Edwin

 

[CBRworm]

Hey Funsize - I had to replace that vent valve on both of mine for the same DTC. Mine are not rusty, so not a bad job.

 

[Elvis1882]

Hey all,

Just wanted to share my experience. I also do not have small hands however with only being able to turn the valve about 30 degrees before it hits the bottom of the....Spring assembly?, I thought, all I have to do is "drop" the metal sheild to gain better assess to the valve. First I "dropped" the splash guard to accommodate dropping the metal guard a bit but then I had to remove a 3 bolt muffler support bracket to gain assess to one of the metal shield nuts.......it was after all this (lets not talk about quality of bolts) that I realized my limitation in turning the valve. I live in the city and at this point too many of my friends wanted to take a crack at it so I shut it down for today being that the adjacent part (canister) is soo expensive.

I have come to the conclusion of going the long route. Corner panel trim to come off, to release the cloth liner & bottom rubber nub at bottom of wheel well, to remove completely plastic splash guard, to remove completely metal splash guard, to bring down entire canister, to rotate valve 90 degrees and replace. Its not a bad job once you accept this procedure but while I was aiming for the short cut and kept digging in further and further, this was the most frustrating part. And the service manual says nothing helpful because it the not encumber all components needed to be removed first in order to gain the access to the canister only.

To the person that was asking where to buy the metal splash guard.....fabricate your own.

By this time tomorrow, I will hopefully have a cleared check engine light or ordering a new canister. Wish me luck.

BTW, I am a 2012 FX35.....so jealous of the G37 group on this repair.