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64 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My wife likes her 13 year old FX35. It now has just a little over 160,000 miles. The ride feels too harsh to me when I drive it. You hit a bump and it feels too solid - like something is bottoming out. I think that after all of these years and miles it's time to replace the shocks and struts. Perhaps even the springs.

I'm considering KYB excel-G shocks and struts from but they don't appear to sell any springs.

I'm not sure what I will need once I start taking things apart. Is anyone familiar with this company? I've sent their customer service a question on just what mounting hardware is included with their "full set" kit.

After all of the years and miles, should all of the upper mounts and bushings just be replaced? The prince of the struts and shocks aren't too bad but if they don't come with anything, the price adds up quickly to buy 2 of everything else to mount them.

She would like the "OEM" ride so are there any suggestions for a replacement kit and where to buy it?


30 Posts
I'm not familiar with that company, but I do know that a lot of the aftermarket quick strut springs are just a wee bit smaller diameter than the originals, which will give you a softer ride, Check to make sure they are the same size material as the originals.

64 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I went with the Monroe Quick Strut for the front and KYB Excel-G shocks for the rear from Rock Auto. I also bought new rear mounting brackets and the bushing kit for the rear because I was able to see some cracks in the 13 year old rubber bushings. I installed the rear shocks on 8-22-20 in 90+ degree F weather. I will provide a summary of my remove and replace adventure next.

64 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Now that I have the time, here is my remove and replace (R & R) experience with the rear shocks.
2007 FX35 with 160,341 miles in Pittsburgh, PA (so there is rust). Original rear shocks and mounts.

I started at 11:00 AM and finished at 4:30 PM - this was a 5.5 hour process. Hot humid weather impacted my energy level and speed. The total time includes the time to get the tools out, jacking the car up one side at a time, going to buy some tools that I didn't have, and then putting the tools away. I always take any you tube video with some time estimate with a grain of salt because most guys have a garage and nothing is ever rusted. Two videos that I watched would lead you to believe that one side would take 30 minutes to possibly 1 hour. So the "pros" total time was estimated as 1 to 2 hours.

Tools Used/Needed:
⅜ drive ratchet
⅜ drive deep well 12 mm and 13 mm sockets for upper mount nuts
⅜ drive extensions
½ drive ratchet
½ drive 24 inch long breaker bar
½ drive 17 mm impact socket for bottom bolt on shock
½ drive 21 mm impact socket to remove lug nuts
½ drive impact wrench if you have one
¼ drive 10 inch extension to help line of holes for bottom shock bolt
PB Blaster
⅜ drive 6 mm hex bit
17 mm offset wrench
small wire brush - the size of a toothbrush
floor jack
wheel chocks
factory screw jack from the car's storage area
gasket scraper
Permatex RTV to replace gaskets

The process is the same for either side.

Jack up the car, remove the wheel, put the screws jack in place instead of a jack stand, and chock the front wheels.
Use the small wire brush to clean up the rust.
Spray the heck out of the bottom bolt and top two nuts.
Use the 12 mm deep well, extension and ratchet to remove the OEM top nuts.
Use the 17 mm socket and breaker bar to remove the lower shock bolt.

If you have an impact wrench with enough torque, use it. Mine wasn't powerful enough for the amount of rust on the threads so I had to use the breaker bar and socket ¼ turn at a time until the bolt was inside the welded nut.

Lower the jack and let the car sit on the screw jack. Be careful as you pull the shock down and out because there is a thin gasket between the upper rear shock mount and the underside of the car. The gasket on my passenger side came off in one piece so I was able to reuse it. The gasket on the driver's side ripped into about 6 pieces so I had to use the Permatex to replace it. You don't want water, mud, snow, or road salt to get up inside that pocket above the top of the shock mount.

My new KYB shocks and mounts did not come with the rubber dust boot that protects the shaft on the new shock so I needed to disassemble the 13 year old shocks to use the originals that were in surprisingly good condition. This is where you need the 17 mm offset wrench and the 6 mm hex bit. You need to take the bolt off of the shock and it's down inside the cup of the upper shock mount. The only way to hold the shaft from spinning is to use the 6 mm hex bit. Pay attention to how much thread is visible from the end of the shaft and the retaining nut before you start removing it. This will tell you how much you need to tighten the new nut when putting the new shock and mount together.

I cleaned the rubber dust boot with a rag soaked in rubber cleaner and conditioner. Put it on the new shock and put the new rubber bushings and the new upper mount onto the shaft. Tighten the nut while holding the shaft with the 6 mm hex. As the rubber bushings squeeze down, the last thread or two will be pretty hard. A second pair of hands or a bench vice will help here to hold the shock and mount.

I took a 10 minute break here on each shock to cool off and drink some water and Gatorade.

Wire brush the threads on the bottom bolt.
Line of the holes for the bottom of the shock with the ¼ extension.
Start the threads on the bottom bolt by hand and the breaker bar a little.
Use your impact wrench to tighten the lower bolt or use a ½ drive ratchet until it's too difficult and then go back to the breaker bar.

The little curve ball with the new KYB shocks is that it came with two 13 mm nuts instead of the OEM 12 mm nuts.
Make sure that the gasket is in place (or the RTV) and screw on the upper nuts.

Put the wheel on, remove the factory screw jack and lower the car using the floor jack. Check that the lug nuts are tight and put on the center cap. Remove the wheel chocks from in front of the front wheels.
Go for a test drive.

Put your tools away. By 4:30 PM, the thermometer in the garden in the back yard was reading 104 degrees F. I had to go inside and drink some more Gatorade. I was exhausted. I did the passenger side first so that I could have a little shade from the car when working on the driver's side. I have a concrete driveway so it was hot. You also have to keep your tools in some shade or you won't be able to pick them up in that sort of sunshine and weather.

I could have cut off about 1 hour from this adventure if I knew that I would need the 17 mm offset wrenches that I had to go out and buy from my local Advance Auto Parts store. I stopped at Auto Zone first and they didn't have anything.

I could have cut off at least another 30 minutes if it wasn't hot and humid and my impact wrench could remove those 13 year old rusted lower bolts.

I don't think that I left anything out.

Good luck.

I think that I'm going to wait until mid September to attempt to remove and replace the front struts.

Here are the part numbers for the rear shocks, mounts, and bushing kits:

2 KYB Excel-G Shock 349027
1 KYB Left Upper Mount SM5697
1 KYB Right Upper Mount SM5696
2 KYB Upper Bushing Mounting Kit SM5695

I hope that this information will help someone with this R & R.
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