Parrot 3100 Bluetooth kit install pictoral

[johnmax]

Here is a rundown of a Parrot 3100 Bluetooth phone kit install in FXPride's 05 FX35. The kit automatically mutes the radio during an incoming or outgoing call, and sends the phone's audio to the FX center channel speaker.

Sorry for the poor picture quality. All I had was the old camera phone.

Here is the speaker in/out harness and relay box for the Parrot kit. It comes with European Iso (VW) connectors, so you need to cut the wires you need off of the plugs. The right side twisted pairs are the output side which go to the speakers, the left side input pairs go into the radio's output.
Wire colors used:
Blue: right -
Green: right +
Red: left -
Orange: left +

[johnmax]

There is a yellow mute wire on the kit's relay box. It throws a negative signal and I used it to trip a standard Bosch relay to break the green/white amplifier turn-on lead coming from the radio.
Connections on the relay:
85: +12v ignition
86: yellow mute from kit
87a: radio side of the amplifier turn-on lead
30: amp side of the amplifier turn-on lead

[johnmax]

Power for the kit is caught at the radio harness.
Power harness wire connections:
Red Battery lead: White/blue
Orange ignition lead: light green/red

[johnmax]

Ground wire is attached to the metal tab coming down between a/c ducts below the center speaker behind the radio.

[johnmax]

Factory amp turn-on wire is cut behind the radio, in the smaller plug next to the main plug. Cut the green/white and use the wires coming from the muting relay in step 2.

[johnmax]

Center channel speaker wire access is right behind the radio. you can unclip the harness from the ductwork, and unplug it from the speaker if you need. Since it is the only speaker we are using for the kit, you only need one pair of wires from the phone kit's relay box. I used the blue and green pair. Cut the center channel speaker wires. Take your output side wires, which come from the female plug, and wire into the speaker side wires as follows:
Speaker red/black: green from kit
Speaker black: blue from kit

Take the input side wires from the kit, which is a male plug, and wire as follows:
Amp side red/black: green from kit
Amp side black: blue from kit

[johnmax]

It is easy to put the kit's brain and all the relays behind the ductwork below the center speaker. You can wire tie it to the harness and ducts.

[johnmax]

When replacing the radio, run the cable for the Bluetooth display out of either lower corner of the radio. There is room and it will not get pinched.

[johnmax]

Mount the display with double stick tape (after cleaning the area with some alcohol). Then you can begin to snap back in the clock panel, making sure to keep the extra slack on the display cable behind the panel. It is tight, but you can get the panel to snap back on flush with the cable in between panels and not pinch it.

[johnmax]

Microphone placement is behind the rear view mirror, clipped to the headliner at the windshield. Less prone to noise from an open window in the center.

[johnmax]

Here is the finished install. You can really mount the display anywhere you like. The right side seemed to be more viewable. I also had the idea of putting it into the ashtray (it looked like it might fit). So when you make a call, or get an incoming call, the radio mutes, and the phone is output thru the center channel speaker. Works very well. Now I need to order mine!

[johnmax]

Thanks to FXPride for letting me post pics of his nice blue FX and its new Bluetooth kit. First guy that I gave a infinitifx.org biz card that actually joined!

[Axel]

I put my display on the other side so that I can see it better.

Does anybody know where I could get a red/amber foil? I would like to change the Parrot's display color to match the rest of the cockpit.

Axel

[contaygious]

thanks for the pictures that is wicked cool!!! i gave up on bt integration for now with my carpc cuz i don't really use the phone enough in the ride...that is wicked cool!!!!!!

pro install man! mad props!

[Tummy]

JohnMax

How much would this cost including installation at your shop mounted in the ashtray?

Thanks!

[Inno]

Nice install!

[elbato22]

Beautiful!!!

[johnmax]

JohnMax

How much would this cost including installation at your shop mounted in the ashtray?

Thanks!

Probably around $400. I don't set the prices myself, but I think FXPride paid a little more than that, so I could probably do a little ORG deal for ya.

[xmen13]

Sweet installation. I was just emailing parrot as they have no idea how to install the parrot 3100. Decided to look on the forum and saw your install. I am hoping to purchase this weekend, the CK3100. is the $400 your price plus installation?

Saw it on the web for about $160 and you can get it via ebay for about $130

Looks to be pretty labor intensive.

Sorry didn't see the date of your posting till now.

Thanks again for this. Just helped a frien do his installation on a Jetta, which was easy. don';t think the FX is as easy.

[SDGuy]

Take a look at this thread:
http://www.expansys-usa.com/forumthread ... &man=PARRO

Yours would be the same basic install as this fellow's 2004 Maxima. He was able to use the Parrot mute relay and install it as if the car did not have a Bose amp. The only mod he had to do was to insert a couple of attenuating resistors in line with the speaker level audio as it exits the Parrot black (actually now blue) box. Much nicer than installing a dedicated speaker. I would definitely order the matching set of Nissan connectors - either Scosche NN03B and NN03BR or Metra 70-7550 and 71-7550 so you don't have to cut any wires behind the radio. Or, if you really want to go fancy, you can order a Nissan to Parrot adapter kit from this fellow in England:
http://www.siocommunications.co.uk/Shop ... ct=SOT-096
This would make the install a piece of cake. Just remember to add the attenuating resistors on the red and while leads as they exit the black box per the thread above - or the Parrot audio will blast super loud out the Bose amp. You would not need to use the mute wire Parrot gives you for your install. BTW, the NAV audio will not play through the speakers while you are on a call - but no biggy.

ps -what bluetooth phone do you have? I've got a Verizon E815 and it works incredibly well with the Parrot 3100 in my Toyota. Some phones don't transfer the phone book properly and some have trouble with voice dialing. Definitely update the firmware in your Parrot kit to 4.13f when you receive it....

[xmen13]

Thanks for this. Didn't realize johnmax would be a different installation since his was a 2005 FX.

Probably have to do some more research before I purchase. Did you install in a FX your Parrott?

I have a Blackberry 7520 right now but will be getting the new Treo w700 in the next month.

I know the 7520 works well with the OS upgrade to 4.1. At least that is what we did to my friends and his works great.

I am not big on hands on electonics in cars so trying to make sure of everything before the plung

[SDGuy]

JohnMax took a different approach, but that has nothing to do with the fact the car he worked on was a 2005. Perhaps he will get a chance to look over the above links and see what he thinks about this method. Maybe he can install it for you. I like the fact that this method uses the mute dongle supplied with the Parrot, the mute is accomplished because the "speaker" wires are disconnected by the mute dongle and no other custom muting relay or speaker switching relay needs to be rigged up. The only mod over and above a normal Parrot install is to lower the audio level out of the control box that is fed to the "speakers" (in our case, the "speakers" are the Bose amp in the trunk and that needs lower level audio).

In my case, I hardwired a full install car kit in my 2004 FX (I've had the same Motorola black box and custom relay unit in the car since then - even though I've gone through hang up cups for the T720 and then for the V710/E815. I used similar limiting resistors to attenuate the speaker level audio out of the Motorola black box. The dedicated hang-up cup has two advantages - it charges the phone and it allows the connection of an external windshield antenna. But in reality, I enjoy the Parrot experience in my kids Toyota RAV4 with my E815 a heck of a lot more! The phone stays on my beltclip. Way cool.

The Treo 700w is on my short list too. It does very well with a Parrot - http://dts.vzw.com/pdf/700w_BT_Carkit.pdf

[johnmax]

Lets start by saying that the audio systems are the same in the FX from 03-05.

My approach seemed to be the easiest way to do what I needed to do: get the sound to output thru some of the factory system while muting the stock audio. Now I have installed many of these Parrot kits and none that I have installed output the phone audio on all 4 speakers, just the front left. Yes there is no need to worry about the mute function if you cut all the output wired from the radio and run them in and out of the Parrot box since it switches them off during phone activity. But you need to worry about resistors due to the amps input sensitivity. You are also hacking into the audio input signal for the amp so there is a possibility that you will introduce noise or other unwanted signals into the system from the Parrot box. So if you are only going to end up with only one speaker playing the phone audio, why would you go through all this? My approach was a very easy way to do it, only cutting a couple of wires and not interfering with the input signal path. And the single center channel speaker gives a better sound than one stuffed down by your legs.

It just seems like this new idea is way more work than needed, and the Bose amps are finicky enough on their own, I don't want to give them any chance to produce unwanted noise.

In my next FX Parrot install (my own fx finally) I am wiring into the actual mute button as another member posted here.

[SDGuy]

Hey John
Let me start by saying that you do beautiful work -so no question there

Don't you have to pull the radio to do your method since you have to get to the amp turn on wire? If you have to pull the radio anyway, what could be easier than the "England" harness which plugs right into the Parrot ISO connectors and connects to the back of the radio and the existing harness? No work whatever. Zero!

The attenuation method with the resistors works perfectly and takes one minute to do with a soldering iron, $1 of resistors and some heat shrink tubing. I have the resistors in my car and there is no noise whatever. The Nissan Maxima guy confirmed no noise as well. The Parrot is out of the loop when no call is in progress anyway - so there is zero chance of noise when not on the phone, right? I wish you could hear a call in my car with the sound coming out of my audio system - incredible depth and quality of audio from the Bose. Howard

[johnmax]

Yeah the radio needs to come out (very easy ). I am in the habit of not interrupting the input signal wires due to many devices I have seen in 15+ years of doing this that develop noise or other unexpected problems. Now according to your method, aren't the resistors in the audio input path now? That can interfere with the audio path.

The method you have is a good method to integrate the HF kit. My pictoral was meant to be a simple way without messing with solder and resistors that some may be unable or uncomfortable with. If they are, than the Metra harness way can save some time. I am just skeptical about introducing components into the audio input path. I don't see the need for high quality phone call audio amplified thru the Bose amp. All of the calls I recieve have such crappy quality anyway so I wouldnt want to amplify them. Unless you want to use your phone as a bluetooth MP3 player.....